Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so my kit has started to lift fairlly bad, especially since i havnt been able to garage the car for the last month! (finlly got myself cover today)!

Ok so I thought about going back to fibrevision (who fitted it 6 months ago) but whts to say same thing wont happen again! So then i went to another place (malaga wnt say name) but they f**ked me around big time! allday friday and then yesterday without car and they didnt do a dam thing! So if anyone knows of a good panel and paint that does kits aswell that might be able to help me out and wont f**k me around??

EDIT:

So I tried Sikaflex over the wknd and unfortunately only one side really worked! The other side looks really dodgey and for most part didnt pull body and skirt together!

So now I have a dilemma:

I went and seen Cowley smash repairs and he said it was going to be incredibly expensive to fix 1. because very delicate, time consuming work, the chance that the skirts will break on removal, chance of chipping, have to repaint skirt and more then likely have to paint quarters so well over a $1000!

Would defintely get Cowleys to do it if I had the money (have seen their work)! but obviously I don't! can anyone help me out I have no idea where to go from here, and i believe its getting worse???

Thanks guys

post-31633-1163317682.jpgpost-31633-1163317710.jpgpost-31633-1163317747.jpg

Edited by kx2fity
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/
Share on other sites

Somehow i got a feeling this thread is gonna get closed, but anyway, go to lombardi brothers at bentley.

Your alarm has warrenty, go find the pple that sold it to you.

P/s: If you ain't payin top notch dollar for express service or know the dudes, don't expect anything to be done that soon. Stop being impatient. This is W.A.

WA = Wait Awhile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2664009
Share on other sites

Somehow i got a feeling this thread is gonna get closed, but anyway, go to lombardi brothers at bentley.

Your alarm has warrenty, go find the pple that sold it to you.

P/s: If you ain't payin top notch dollar for express service or know the dudes, don't expect anything to be done that soon. Stop being impatient. This is W.A.

WA = Wait Awhile.

Closed why! I didnt mention where!

I expect when someone tells me they're going to do a job, a job im paying for by a certain time they do it simple!

It took me 3 weeks to get a day off so i could take car in! i organise it in adavnce rock-up there (over hr away) and guess what guy doesnt even show (3hrs waiting for nothing) so then i finally get hold of him and yeh will do this arvo head back out + no go, then satdy same thin again! I just wonder how the hell you run a business like that!

haha yeh i not from perth!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2664053
Share on other sites

If you are not after a show finish, can I suggest you have a go at repairing yourself.

To attach the skirts, buy some Sikaflex from your local repco or similar, use small amounts under the skirts where its lifting, then sit a spare wheel against it over night, or 24 hours if possible (weekend job). You can use rags to prevent the paint from being damaged by the wheel. NOTE 1

For the scratches and chips, get some touch up paint - you can go to your local panel beater and ask them to mix some for you - or if its factory paint, places like Autopro can make up 1L containers for around $20 odd (may be 40, its been a while since I bought some). Only use enamel, not acrylic.

Just use a small paint brush (cheap disposable), and apply sparingly. you will be surprised how well it will come up - unless you are up close its normally very hard to pic touched up scratches. Start with the scrached under the skirts until you start to get a feel for the best way to apply.

I think you will find with painters, you may have trouble getting a job done quickly. If you are having trouble, pm me, I will give you some details for a guy who does private jobs on weekends, and should be able to help you out

good luck

NOTE 1:

when working with sikaflex, make sure you have some thinners or turps on standby to remove any that may go where you dont want it.

Once dry, it can be difficult. Make sure you seal up the left over sikaflex very, very thoroughly, as once it dries, its for the bin.

If you need to tool the sikaflex, just use salive on a finger and you can move it around without it sticking to your skin

enjoy :) its fun stuff, but it works well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2664072
Share on other sites

If you are not after a show finish, can I suggest you have a go at repairing yourself.

To attach the skirts, buy some Sikaflex from your local repco or similar, use small amounts under the skirts where its lifting, then sit a spare wheel against it over night, or 24 hours if possible (weekend job). You can use rags to prevent the paint from being damaged by the wheel. NOTE 1

For the scratches and chips, get some touch up paint - you can go to your local panel beater and ask them to mix some for you - or if its factory paint, places like Autopro can make up 1L containers for around $20 odd (may be 40, its been a while since I bought some). Only use enamel, not acrylic.

Just use a small paint brush (cheap disposable), and apply sparingly. you will be surprised how well it will come up - unless you are up close its normally very hard to pic touched up scratches. Start with the scrached under the skirts until you start to get a feel for the best way to apply.

I think you will find with painters, you may have trouble getting a job done quickly. If you are having trouble, pm me, I will give you some details for a guy who does private jobs on weekends, and should be able to help you out

good luck

NOTE 1:

when working with sikaflex, make sure you have some thinners or turps on standby to remove any that may go where you dont want it.

Once dry, it can be difficult. Make sure you seal up the left over sikaflex very, very thoroughly, as once it dries, its for the bin.

If you need to tool the sikaflex, just use salive on a finger and you can move it around without it sticking to your skin

enjoy :) its fun stuff, but it works well.

Cheers mate, exactly the response I was after!

Why use enamel over acrylic?

Problem has been that I have been renting in perth and we dnt have garage or undercover area and so it has been almost impossible to do things myself!

I even had to pay someone the other day to change my gear box oil, simply because I had no where I could do it!

Im heading back down south where I have my own garage and all my tools in bout 3 weeks time so thats when the fun will begin! be dropping in another 25det and doing some external mods!

Do you think a spare tyre would apply enough pressure? it seems to take a fair amount of force to push skirt back flush with panel??? or does this 'sikaflex' pull surfaces together or expand or....???

In relation to the scratches and chips, and getting some touch up paint - i wont need to supply them with a paint code? they can match?

My Father lives down south and is a Painter, not a car painter but still.... I might try get in contact with him and see if he has any tips!

Thanks Steve, appreciate it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2664154
Share on other sites

welcome, thats why SAU is here...

you will need to give them a paint code (repco), if its custom paint, you would be best visiting a panel beater/spray painter so they can match.

If you are not sure if a wheel will hold the skirt in place, try resting it and see, the sikaflex wont pull the sides together unfortuneately. the space saver might be a bit light to do the job though, best way is to test (may be able to rest some bricks on the space saver or something until it applies enough pressure?)

One last thing, get the black sikaflex, it sticks best :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2664224
Share on other sites

about the alarm, have u tried changing the batteries in your remote? I know of 4 people who have an Autowatch alarm and have had to change the batteries in the first 6mths.

Edited by _8OO5TED_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2681991
Share on other sites

about the alarm, have u tried changing the batteries in your remote? I know of 4 people who have an Autowatch alarm and have had to change the batteries in the first 6mths.

Apparently its the actual siren thats stuffed! Everything else is ok, but i will prob chuck sum new batteries in just to be sure!

Apparently i can replace the faulty unit with any 'alarm siren'???

Thanks,

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2682948
Share on other sites

Save and get it done professionally. The car deserves that much. Seeing you do a hasty DIY is pointless and I can see it ending in more angst and disaster. Especially if crowley smash have said it will be fidley and you seem like a guy who will rush it.

Just be patient and save, look at me, 4 weeks to get a new turbo manifold fitted and a service. Welcome to WA and skylines.

Edited by Tofu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2693355
Share on other sites

Okay how to fix this problem, you will need to get a few of those cheap fold out knifves.

Get a roll of masking tape and mask the 1/4 panel save you slipping and scracthing the car and mask the kit. Cut out as much of the old sikaflex as possible so you can push the side skirt against the car and have none of it fowl.

You will need a milk create and a bottle jack and a piece of timber. lay the bottle jack on the create against the wall. Put your car between the wall and the bottle jack. You'll need to get heaps of sikaflex down that gap between the 1/4 panel and side skirt. work out the distance you can chock the piece of timber in the jack and with a towel place on the side skirt . jack the side skirt tightly up to the car without cracking it. if sikaflex comes out remover it with a rag and straight washing detergent. leave for 24HOURS!

If not drive up to gerladton and i will gladly fix it.

Excuse all speeling and grammar errors its late and im tired

Edited by Silent
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142976-bodykit-lifting/#findComment-2696124
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...