Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Timers And Where To Get Them Fitted

gargantua

By gargantua,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

gargantua Enthusiast

gargantua

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Just got my first skyline 2 weeks ago been haveing a blast in it. So far I have put in a new sterio and an immobiliser, I am now looking at getting a auto turbo timer.

What I would like to know is whats the difference between the expensive Apexi, Blitz etc... and the other auto turbo timers they sell over here at autobarn, supercheap auto, repco etc...

Ideally I would like the timer to go under the car sterio because there is a huge gap there from where the old jap sterio use to be.

So any ideas guys on where to get a reasonably good one that dosent cost me too much to purchace and get fitted.

Thanks.

eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted (edited)

i bought my greddy turbo timer from bt-revolutions - then got it installed at RE Customs.

Any of the sponsers of SAU will be worth while checking. I got the greddy one cos its a turbo timer, and also calculates the 0-100 time and 0-400m etc....but the other good one is the Apexi timer, but thats only a timer.

Edit - the HKS one is a bit more expensive, but the autobarn guys keep saying that its caused their customers a lot of problems. I dont know how true that is - but i dont trust autobarn cos the dickhead (must be like 20 years old and working as a casual) gave me the wrong wheel lock nuts and said that he is sure it will fit my wheels.... So my advise is to go to someone who knows their stuff, a proper import mechanic or stores that deal with imports and accessories for imports.....

Edited by emsta2003
Kaz200 Grand Master

Kaz200

Posted
Posted

my greddy FAT broke within like 12months or something.. meanwhile the HKS Type 1 (on diff car) has been going for nearly 5 yrs now.. Haven't tried the Blitz but personally I think its ugly.

My other half said bring over some beer and he'll install it for it you.. but we're in Lalor/Epping.. so depends how far away you are.

Best bet is to get a HKS with a harness.. Jaycar have cheap turbo timers as well but you have to assemble them, I think there's a group buy going atm through funkymonkey/Shan.. don't get a TT from Autobarn caus they're ridiculously priced (high overheads what can you do).

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

How about you DON'T buy one and save both the money of the timer and install?

You need a turbo timer as much as a glorified Lancer needs a vortex generator.

Biggest wastes of money ever - just drive the car easily for 2-3 minutes before you stop - or if you are at the track, let it run for a while in the pits and cool down.

Now buy me a case of Carlton Draught and you'll still be $60 ahead.

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted

Throw Andrew from Kudos Motorsport (sponsor on here) a PM about his Pivot Super Baby Timers, good price and nice and simple to fit and use, although IMO a very popular choice is the apexi T/T because of its extra functions and price Usually around the $120 mark.

Im personally about to buy a Pivot TT and install myself, if u can install a deck, a TT is just as easy :)

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
thats all good in theory til you are in a super late rush and the last thing you're thinking about is driving easy :)

Turbo timer = easy, lazy and you can just forget all about it

and that is the exact reason I haven't sold mine, and still want to get it fitted ;)

Won't use it half the time, like this wanker at the petrol station today, but its good to have when running late, when you're most likely on boost until you park it :)

The dude at the servo today cruised into the servo just before me (so I know for a fact he was taking it easy), and stood at the pump waiting for about 60 seconds while the turbo timer ran. I had almost filled up and paid before he started ;)

Oh and Kel, if you know how to install a TT into an alarm with a TT interface, then do mine for me please ;)

Kaz200 Grand Master

Kaz200

Posted
Posted
The dude at the servo today cruised into the servo just before me (so I know for a fact he was taking it easy), and stood at the pump waiting for about 60 seconds while the turbo timer ran. I had almost filled up and paid before he started :)

are you sure you aren't mistaking me for a man caus I did the same thing today hehe :)

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

do you drive a green s14? :)

I thought it was funny...I'm not one to turn off my car straight away....but when i've cruised off boost entirely, and pull in to fill up, I dont sit there and wait...was funnier because he was out of the car standing there with the fuel door open waiting :)

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I'm with Roy on this one. But you can keep the Carlton, so you'll be even further ahead.

thats all good in theory til you are in a super late rush and the last thing you're thinking about is driving easy :)
Then you need too plan better. And whatever you are heading for will still be there in the 30 seconds you lose by driving sensibly.
Turbo timer = ... lazy...
Exactly!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...