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Wanted: stock RB25DET (Neo) in-rail fuel pressure regulator ASAP. Anything that will suit the Neo motor ... I assume any RB25DET will do.

Anyone?

:D

Can't find mine ... still looking.

Hey Rubes what is the issue with the one I sold you? Have you had a mechanic check the fitting and settings? I would get some opinions from mechanics before I give up on it - they are very highly rated in mod circles.

Hey Rubes what is the issue with the one I sold you? Have you had a mechanic check the fitting and settings? I would get some opinions from mechanics before I give up on it - they are very highly rated in mod circles.

I had HiTech fit it for me Andrew. Haven't had a thorough look at it yet (only adjustments). Might get some time tonight to thoroughly check it.

When John fitted it, I had the boost wound down to stock (10 to 7psi) fitted the sotck air box and took it all back to stock settings just to be safe for the dyno day until I could get a full tune at 10psi. Only the car was grossly underpowered on the day. And I've been chasing the problem since.

All I know is what the FPR gauge tells me. The pressure hits about 60psi on start up with a whinning noise (odd sound, hard to describe) which it never made before (when John Keen fitted it), and after 10-15 seconds the noise stops and the pressure drops to 25-30 psi. No matter how much I adjust it (only time I've touched it since John fitted it), it won't go above 30psi. I've been taking note of amount of turns from John's setting. Its running so poorly, I'm scared to drive it the distance to John's. Willall is my closest, but no one can help me on Saturdays (I work 8-5).

I just want a stock FPR to rule this out as being the problem. I'm also going to clean the AFM and O2 sensor. Got my A/F ratio meter today ... should have this fitted by the weekend. Then I'll know how bad it is.

I have the Aero front bar from Viva, fits ok i guess, but best fitted by a professional. The feedback was "pain in the ass to fit"

thanxxx i called up but they dont have any in stock but while i was lookin around i saw the jbl kits for the 34!! fair sexx :D just ceebz orderin one from europe :laugh: needa c if any1 here does them.

Looking for a cheap thrash car like a manual datto, ke70, gem ect to do some rallying and other motor events. Budget is about a grand unless you have something really of interested and would be interested in swapping for a 32 GTST.

Send me a PM if you've got anything. :)

For some reason I cant work out how to post in sections... used to have a "new topic" tab, but its gone... anyway I'm looking for the plastic factory splash tray that sits under the sump for an R32... anyone? Hope this gets thru....

Mike

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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