Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for the following parts for gtst r32-

Stock suspension, stock exhaust or exhaust with low db level, steering wheel, parcel shelf

Please pm me of you have any of the parts listed

You don't need a stock or quiet exhaust for regency, I've been through 3 times with a straight through 3" exhaust with a single muffler at the rear.

You don't need a stock or quiet exhaust for regency, I've been through 3 times with a straight through 3" exhaust with a single muffler at the rear.

Your exhaust cant be louder then 90 decabells!

Edited by Ben r33 s2

heya bud hit jim up at Australian and Japanese Dismantlers 0421939648, say Danny/gingy/ranga sent you he has a few 33s stripping at the moment, you most prob be able to get a sell also

yeah I ended up getting everything from there except for the window rail haha cheers.

WTB - rb20 oil filter sandwich plate

r33 2 door side skirts cheap and rough is fine.

r33 front & rear coilovers will take pairs

And I need a nut plus pin for a driveshaft for where it locks onto the hub/brake disc if anyone knows where I could find one... Gen Nissan is 3 weeks and $40 later

After the following

- Boss Kit for 33 gtst

- Sparco, Velo etc wheel

- Front bar to suit 33 gtst series 2. standard aftermarket what ever any condition!

- Bride, Velo, Sparco etc seat and rails suit r33

- HKS ssqv bov suit 33

- Rear bumper body kit and side skirts

all for a track car have other wants just cant think

Im in adeliade but will pay post, have cash / paypal ready to go

Items:

Fuel tank lid - white bit in the photo (in the manual it's actually called a "sender unit")

From a GTS-T S1.5/2 (not sure if other models are the same?)

Extra Info:

I want it to convert it to AN fitting and larger power wires for the pump. If I butcher it, I don't want to be without a car.

Contact Details:

Reply to this post and we can take it from there.

Price and price conditions:

No idea what this would be worth..

post-59520-0-82570800-1376733396_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...