Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gota set of chev eagle H-beam rods ata good price, but they need to modified to fit rb engines. the distributer tells me this is not a major prolem and should not cost more than 2hunj for modifying an dmachining.

now i got 2 questions.

1: whose done this? what excatly do i have to tell the machineist to do to these? is the differance down near the bearing or up near the pin which needs to be changed.

2: who can do this in PERTH, ive ordered them so they should arrive in a week or so.

tenx

Edited by humz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143718-chev-rods-modified-for-rb30/
Share on other sites

I take it you ordered rods to suit 2" BE's. You need to buy .030" under be's bearings (ACL) for 2" rod, then you have .005" to grind off be's. Bolt bearings into a rod and give .0025" clearance, from my experince only. Can't remeber what the be rod width is like comparing the two. Machine shop should be able to modify that if need be. You will also need to compare rod pin sizes. Have quoted here because I grind cranks for a killing (employed to). Hope this helps.

Edited by skidkid
MOPAR=Mostly Old Parts And Rust!

Dodge, Chrysler, whatever can go cram their crappy american cars up you know where.

Americans cant make cars, and the same can almost be said about poms.

err yes..well.

Kind of like the stupid head concept those idiots at dodge/MOPAR came up with, the Hemi (short for hemispherical chamber head).

Those idiots!

Hang on thats the design the RB motors have! Noooooooo! :(

Edited by rev210

yes yes...everyone knows about their achievements...and how the aftermarket block and head designs used in drag racing are based of theirs...blah blah blah...i just dont like them...so i say silly things like that. I like to be ignorant sometimes.

Edited by r33_racer
gota set of chev eagle H-beam rods ata good price, but they need to modified to fit rb engines. the distributer tells me this is not a major prolem and should not cost more than 2hunj for modifying an dmachining.

now i got 2 questions.

1: whose done this? what excatly do i have to tell the machineist to do to these? is the differance down near the bearing or up near the pin which needs to be changed.

2: who can do this in PERTH, ive ordered them so they should arrive in a week or so.

tenx

Using Chevy rods is old school RB30 stuff, when you couldn't buy aftermarket RB30 conrods. By the time you pay for the machining and the bearings you could have bought specific RB30 aftermarket rods for less.

:O cheers :rofl:

yes yes...everyone knows about their achievements...and how the aftermarket block and head designs used in drag racing are based of theirs...blah blah blah...i just dont like them...so i say silly things like that. I like to be ignorant sometimes.

Thats ok. I was just oversensitive as I'm thinking about buying a Jensen Interceptor, British car with a 440cui Dodge big block. :O

In the middle of the day ? give us a bit more credit !

No just looking at your Avatar ? Whatever that means , about films you like . Must be showing my age .

Was from the second film "Aliens" , phrase went "Get away from her you bitch" . Shoot I do need a drink .

Sorry back to con rods surely someone is making them cheap enough for RB30's not to have to remachine something in the ball park dimensionally speaking . I think I'd rather have a made for the purpose rod rather than one altered by hands unknown . No come back on an altered component .

Cheers ....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...