Jump to content
SAU Community

Blowing Out The Dipstick!

veilside33
 Share

Recommended Posts

veilside33 Rookie

veilside33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

about 3 weeks ago now i did a run down the quarter...

i redlined first gear and it spat out the dipstick and left it hanging off of the side of my engine.

my r33 now blows the dipstick out quite often and is realy worrying me.

Has anyone experienced this before? does anyone know what could *hyperthetically* of done this?

Im also having a problem with my powersteering/hicas

My hicas light will be on and ill loose powersteering *weather its related or not* although sometimes i will have no hicas light on the dash and it will all be sweet But generally, when hicas is on im powersteeringless.

Any info is apreciated...

*another subject*

If there is Anyone Interested in tradeing a r33 gts-t *auto* with veilside kit and drift wing, front mount intercooler large turbosmart bov, large 5" cannon on a 3" pipe..boost guage and boost tap, im looking for a r32 manual with light mods and good looks.. im open to any offer so just give me a call on 04 22202239, im from ipswich in qld............. its not that i hate my 33, i just like the older shape and manual setup better.

Cheers everyone and any help would be mad!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143897-blowing-out-the-dipstick/
Share on other sites
veilside33 Rookie

veilside33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok thats fair.. Although i have asked a few aged mechanics and they seem to think its a miner issue, nothing internal.. they are thinking it may well just be a vaccum leak in the pipes. the engine does not miss a beat, it simply idles more stagered then it should.

Anyways hopefully when i take it to the mechanic he doesnt tell me that i need a engine rebuild...

><

NutR33 Community Regular

NutR33

Posted
Posted

my rb25 was doing that too, i only just made it home in an oily mess, pulled the engine down and had melted ringlands on a piston. everytime i got on boost it would pressurise the sump and pop the dipstick out. it ran fine other wise.

i would recomend getting a comp test asap, will show up any difference in cylinder pressures, may not be a big difference depending on how bad the damage is.

ctjet Grand Master

ctjet

Posted
Posted
my rb25 was doing that too, i only just made it home in an oily mess, pulled the engine down and had melted ringlands on a piston. everytime i got on boost it would pressurise the sump and pop the dipstick out. it ran fine other wise.

i would recomend getting a comp test asap, will show up any difference in cylinder pressures, may not be a big difference depending on how bad the damage is.

thats what i meant... i just isnt smart enough to wrote it :(

lingeringsoul Grand Master

lingeringsoul

Posted
Posted

better get a second opionion from a more younger mechanics to check it out....seems every time i hear someone blow out the dipstick, the engine blows after a few weeks....so fingers cross.......

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

does it have a catch can? if so the catch can could be hooked up wrong and it is pressurising the sump

if not i would have grave concerns about the motor, as another possibilty is that you are are getting large amounts of blow by which is pressurising the sump and the engine will need rebuild to fix it.

get it compression and leakdown tested.

dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

its either gona be cheap or realy expensive, could be blocked/not working pcv valve causeing it to build excesive crank presures and making it hunt at idle, or melted rings/pistons, my old engine ran fine except it used to pump out bout 1lt perhr of driving, other then that still went hard lol, p.s i had a catch can fitted at the time,

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I would have my money on a smashed ring or smashed ring-land, allowing boost pressure to bypass the piston and pressurise the sump. And the simplest pressure-relief valve is the dip stick.

Get it checked pronto.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...