Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 - How-to Fix The Auto Power Window Relay

Lazy-Bastard

By Lazy-Bastard,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

jim80
jim80

I dont even have a relay :?

TALBO
TALBO

No one had this issue on a 95 or later model 33?

Keeffy
Keeffy

Hey guys wonder if you can help me, having similar problems with my s2 R33 gtst Drivers window hsa been starting to play up over a few months, never has any problems going down, can stop at any point

Posted Images

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
TALBO Grand Master

TALBO

Posted
Posted

I've got a noise (fast clicking) on my drivers side window but only when the window gets right to the top. I've taken the door trim of and had a look but cannot locate this relay. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks

chinkeboi Rising Star

chinkeboi

Posted
Posted

mate... you are a f*cking legend

kudos to you for creating this thread... worked perfectly... infact i had the same bad solder point as you did in your pics... it was one of the plug soldering connections...

worked a treat man... i owe ya :D

TALBO Grand Master

TALBO

Posted
Posted
I've got a noise (fast clicking) on my drivers side window but only when the window gets right to the top. I've taken the door trim of and had a look but cannot locate this relay. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks

No one had this issue on a 95 or later model 33?

  • Like 1
snoop Explorer

snoop

Posted
Posted

I read this threat a while back, worked just fine, but since then i would of had to pull it apart another 4-5 times as different joins keeped breaking, in the end i just did the whole lot, been fine since...dunno if anyone else has the re-occuring problem?

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
benno013 Rookie

benno013

Posted
Posted

just to add to it also myne stopped working so pulled the relay apart and if i manually pressed the contacts down it would work fine a contact points file later and all good :)

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Hey all, I'm having a bit of a problem understanding what others have done, I have the clicking noise and have taken the relay out.. If I press manually on the contacts, the window goes up/down no problems. If I just try and use the switch to go down, it won't do it.

Previous poster 'benno013' said a contacts file later and all good... can anyone tell me what that means? Maybe I'm just being really dumb here haha.

Thanks for any help guys.

  • 2 months later...
lismo Community Regular

lismo

Posted
Posted

:) Lazy Bastard you are AWSOME!!!

Had probs wif my drivers window for ages then it got stuck, i could hear clicking in the door frame....took it to electricians cost me $44 for them to tell me i needed to replace motor and reg so i did that, took it back to electricians to install, that cost me $88 and as i was driving off my window didnt work, the switch for the passenger side didnt work and the lock switch wouldnt move..took it back was told i needed a new switch and the auto stop button inside the door frame..WHAT THE F*#K!!!

Got home took my switch apart found that they busted a clip on passenger switch and didnt line up the lock switch and mashed it on!!! (lucky i had a spare control panel put away)

I go online and find lazy bastards thread, pulled off the relay and i have exactly the same crack in the solder!!!!

Moral to the story......dont spend $250 on useless electricians when you can go on sau and fix it yourself!!!

Those electricians are gona cop it tomorrow!!! :D

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Hahahahaha that's good you got it sorted...... yeah SAU freakin rocks!

Just an update too, I ended up going and getting a new reg from a wrecker.... swapped it in, no more drama since.

  • 1 month later...
Mevo Contributor

Mevo

Posted
Posted

Today my windows goes up and down without to much problem... well I have to pull the windows up sometimes by hand...

But when using the the auto up/down, it doesn't shut down after getting to the max (up or down)... I can still hear the motor running and not stopping....

Think it is the realy doing that?

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Great, thanks for this write up.

cleared up a few things for me with the stupid window. damn thing was open while i was working just as it started to rain... then it gave up LOL.

  • 1 month later...
Benben Enthusiast

Benben

Posted
Posted

Lazy-Bastard you are a legend!!

I searched and searched the first time my power window stopped going (curiously in cold/wet weather as well) and all I ended up finding was a bit of a ghetto fix of turning the relay upside down and whacking it then trying again.. it worked, for only so long.

Took my relay apart and found about 3-4 dodgy looking solder joints and once I fixed them up it worked like a charm! I haven't had a good play with it yet now it's fixed but I hope it means the end of the flick down before up when trying to get the window to go up sometimes, and then there was the gentle elbow whilst holding down to get it to go down.. ahh.

  • 1 month later...
R33BORN Apprentice

R33BORN

Posted
Posted

Thankyou for this thread!

Found a hairline fracture in a few of the solders and fixed up in 5min, works a treat!

Also, funny after researching this problem just how many people are WTB new control boxes...

  • 5 weeks later...
Keeffy Collaborator

Keeffy

Posted
Posted

Hey guys wonder if you can help me, having similar problems with my s2 R33 gtst

Drivers window hsa been starting to play up over a few months, never has any problems going down, can stop at any point going down no worries and all works hunky dorey. Can go up form this same point no worries too. However if the window is allowed to go fully down and clicks into position some issues can arrise. A intermidate clicking noise can be head form inside the door, 2 click then few secodns gap and repeat. When trying to make the window go up sometimes the switch wont work and requeres some pushing down up down up or a bit of a wriggle. clicking stops straight away and the window goes up as normal...

Window has never not gone up but can take a few clicks.

Any idea if its the same thing or what i should look into?

Cheers

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...