Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

After finding out my water pump was indeed leaking I have decided to go ahead with a timing belt change + idler bearings while its easy to do. My mate who's doing it all at the moment asked for a timing belt kit, which consists of a Gates timing belt, 2 bearings?? = idler and something else I guess, and 3 'fields' (don't ask me what they are but he said they are cheap as chips).

Anyways, the bill for the kit comes to over $500 (think he said $550 for the kit) which to me sounds surprisingly high. Is this a rip or what?? I was thinking a timing belt is around the $130 mark, and the idler stuff was around $30 each, and the fields arn't much at all, so around $220-250 for the whole deal, not over $500??? Whats the deal? Is this right?

To make it worse, only one bearing was sent with the kit anyways.......

Fixxxer :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144150-500-for-gates-timing-belt-bearings/
Share on other sites

CBC sell those kits for about $400, they recommend retail of 650 to their resellers.

There is another source for the bearings a thread is posted here somewhere, they were much cheaper ($110 I think?) + about $100 for a nissan timing belt.

But it sounds like its too late for you already?

justjap sell the gates timing belts for $99

idler and tensioners go for around $80 each (coventry auto).

cam seals (have the same part number as the front crank seal on rb25's) go for $15 each from memory (LINCORP parramatta with SAU membership discount).

i got my timing belt from Nissan for ~$80, and both bearings from Bearing Industries or something (thread on SAU with contact details, and the guy knows exactly what you need) for under $100 for both of them.

as said just goto your local bearing shop for all that stuff.

Gates belts are like 90 bux, idler and tensioner is around 80-120(depends where you go), most seals around a few buxs each normally...as stated cam seals and front oil pump seal are the same.

If you stick with Quality after market you can't go wrong, Nissan don't make bearings and belts anyway. Try to keep to Japanese bearings - NTN, NSK, KOYo etc.

I have the old/genuine idler & tensioner bearings off my RB20DET in my hand now and they are:

fixed one = NTN - OFO63OLB - this one needed replacing at about 150,000 kms - really stuffed.

ADJ. one = NSK - 6006DWAX - this one i replaced anyway, still feels good.

TRy bearing traders if you are in Brisi or CBC elsewhere. Talk to someone who is in engineering and you'll find which are the good brands, but the parts I've got through bearing traders have always been top quality gear.

Edited by gts4diehard
  • 1 month later...

Sorry to bump this thread up..

But i need to change my timing belt soon..

I was wondering is there any difference between the gates timing belt or the Trust ones or any other jap brands??

Theres a 80 buck difference between the two.. But if the gates one does the job, might as well get that!!

But on the other hand, if quailty is better from Trust, then im ready to pay a little extra!!

Cheers all

Edit: Just did more research, and noticed that gates belt has a bit of noise on idle.. Will the Trust belt be the same??

Or better off just getting a genuine nissan belt for the 33??

Edited by siddr20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...