Help With L24e Mod

[Paul_22]

Hi,

I own an 84 mr30 (l24e) skyline and i am looking at doing a full rebuild/reconditioning to get it ready for a turbo, but I am unsure what type of pistons, cam, turbo etc to get or where to buy it from as i live in tassie performance garages are few to none down here. Any help would be much appreciated.

I would also like to know wheather standard injectors would be suitible to reach say 12psi as i replaced them all with new ones six months ago. I would like to buy some parts such as turbo (and manifold) second hand to cut costs a bit

Thanks, Paul

[the big JC]

im looking at doing the same thing. To turbo the L24E you will need the following L20ET intake and exhaust manifolds, L20ET injectors, L20ET injectors, L20ET afm, and a L20ET engine loom and you should also look at geting a piggy back ecu, a P90 head, and some flat top pistons if you are rebuilding the motor just get your self a P90 head and recon that and chuck that on and you will probally get new pistons when you rebuild so you might as well fork out the extra $$ and get some flat tops and also use good quality rings, bigend bearings, and conrod bearings

(the motor will be stronger and should handle a bit of extra boost also if you wind the boost up you should think about an intercooler to)

and with the L20ET gear the only stuff that you may still be able to buy new is the injectors and the rest of the stuff aint easy to find.

if you got any other questions ask me or gohstrider he's where i learnt everythink from

[paulmac]

didnt the 260z's or one of the z series have flat top pistons for the L series? they might work out cheaper i got qouted roughly a grand for a rebuild with flat tops and im sure you could find a better head around at a local get your own shit type of wrecker and get that rebuilt when you get your block and such rebuilt and if you dont have any check out the datto forums or try source people here that are willing to part with parts, and for internal work all the l series have stock forged crank and rods, pretty sure you wont need to change the compression ratio coz isnt it already 8:5? which is the same as an rb20det? if any of this doesnt sound right correct me as i dont have a great memory and going by the info i got when i was gonna do this.

and as for not having performance garages near by most the stuff you can find if your lucky will need to be posted anyway i live in adelaide and everything i could find appart from injectors needed to be posted

good luck i still really wanna do this conversion but got other plans

cheers Paul.

[Factory 5]

good onya!

Thats 3 of us now!

Im still getting info in Engine Management... whether stand-alone or piggyback or a hybrid system of some sort...

I think (hope!) an L20et ECU might work, but with some adjustable resistors to help with the fuel ratios and some sort of trigger system to use different values at pre-set RPMs.... (theoretically 2.4lt has 20% more airflow than a L20e, but the turbo increases the airflow on both sides a fair bit, so there is still alot of extra things to consider)

I have a mate who is playing with the idea now, will post up more info as i get it...

[blind_elk]

Not sure why you think flat-top pistons are required. The L24E has a 8.5:1 C/R, which is basically the same as a RB20DET. So I don't believe you need to be looking at flat-tops (assuming you are looking at them for more compression).

As far as a turbo for your engine is concerned, the RB20 turbo will bolt straight onto the L20ET manifold. And you may have more success sourcing L28ET manifolds and the like - perhaps try Lindsay at Z Shop in Melbourne.

[the big JC]

Not sure why you think flat-top pistons are required. The L24E has a 8.5:1 C/R, which is basically the same as a RB20DET. So I don't believe you need to be looking at flat-tops (assuming you are looking at them for more compression).

As far as a turbo for your engine is concerned, the RB20 turbo will bolt straight onto the L20ET manifold. And you may have more success sourcing L28ET manifolds and the like - perhaps try Lindsay at Z Shop in Melbourne.

im only going by what gohstrider said

[Paul_22]

hi,

Thanks for your help,

where I am looking at the moment is boring out the l24 block to an l26 running reasonably new l26 pistons but not sure weather or not forged will be required (+ strength work). running a later model l26 head ported, polished and i recon the l28 manifold is looking like a good choice (spending most money on the head ) i would rather one with the later model valve seats as i am told that the earlier l26 heads have weak ones. the main thing I am looking for at the moment is a good condition L26 Head and start from there. As for the ecu a company here thinks they can use the standared ecu and wireing another box (cheaply) to run the fuel and boost which would save money untill i go for an aftermarket ecu. The engine will also be ballanced and should be good for around 7200 rpm I have been told. The gearbox and diff where redone not that long ago so I am hopeing they will be alright.

I appreciate all the advice given and if anyone has any corrections on my information or anymore additions would be a big help.

Thnaks,

Paul

[the big JC]

how much dose this place want to modify the ecu and by stock you mean the L24E ecu and loom or do you mean the L20ET ones

Edited November 22, 2006 by the big JC

[Paul_22]

how much dose this place want to modify the ecu and by stock you mean the L24E ecu and loom or do you mean the L20ET ones

It was the standard l24 ecu and loom will post specific details tommorrow as i will call in and see them after work.

[Ghostrider]

hi,

Thanks for your help,

where I am looking at the moment is boring out the l24 block to an l26 running reasonably new l26 pistons but not sure weather or not forged will be required (+ strength work). running a later model l26 head ported, polished and i recon the l28 manifold is looking like a good choice (spending most money on the head ) i would rather one with the later model valve seats as i am told that the earlier l26 heads have weak ones. the main thing I am looking for at the moment is a good condition L26 Head and start from there. As for the ecu a company here thinks they can use the standared ecu and wireing another box (cheaply) to run the fuel and boost which would save money untill i go for an aftermarket ecu. The engine will also be ballanced and should be good for around 7200 rpm I have been told. The gearbox and diff where redone not that long ago so I am hopeing they will be alright.

I appreciate all the advice given and if anyone has any corrections on my information or anymore additions would be a big help.

Thnaks,

Paul

This isn't a new idea your getting, it has been discussed for a long time and on many threads.

For a srarter, I suggested L20ET bits because they might, but only might be easier to get, as we did get a few front cuts and some guys have swapped RB's for the L20. The L28E inlet is better due to the larger runner diameter inside, if you get an L20, get it power ported and it will be very good value, but it's expensive.

Paul, your talking about boring to L26????? how so when both L24 & L26 have the same 83.0mm bore. The L26 has a longer stroke, that's all. You will need to bore .120 (3.0mm) oversize to get anything like 2600 and I don't think the L24 block will take a 3.0 over bore.

As for pistons and compression, blind elk is partly right, the early model R30 L24E engines were 8.5:1, but the later 84/85 engines were 8.9:1, so why? pray tell are you looking at flat top pistons.

Remember the higher the static compression the lower the max boost level has to be. 8.5 - 9.0:1 is a great compression for turbo, but you just have to watch how much boost you push into it.

The absolute best turbo head is a P90, all the experts say exactly this, but they are not easily obtained and not at a nice enough price. The last price I got from Z Bits in Kingswood was $500 - 750.00, so if it was me doing this conversion, I would be sticking to your N47, or getting an N42 head. The N42 has the larger 44mm inlet valves. Having said this, a tad more boost will always be better than a couple of mm in valve head size. Your dollars would be better spent on porting the exhaust side to allow the gases to flow out better. Both N42 & 47 heads are later models than L26 260Z heads.

For the optimum L24ET package, I would think you need the following parts.

Late model L24E engine, 280ZX inlet manifold, (if you can get a 280ZXT all the better) L20/28ET exhaust manifold, KA24E, or RB25DE throttle body, 280ZX or MX83, or 7MGTE injectors, maybe RB25DE as these are 270cc, The ECU is a bit of an issue, I think the L20ET ECU will control lots more than you will ever need, but it might have the 180kph restriction in it, I have never tried mine out to that speed, so I don't know. But the L20ET ECU has a different wiring arrangement, as the MR30 has one long plug, the L20 has 2 x smaller plugs, so it will need to be wired in.

Other than this, just a high flow (zero back pressure) turbo exhaust of about 2.5/2.75 in is all you should need, outside of odd bits & pieces.

Cheers, D

[the big JC]

just found that stewart wilkins motorsport sell 86mm and 87mm flat top pistons and rings to suit for the L6's $244 for the piston set and $155 for the rings

[Ghostrider]

just found that stewart wilkins motorsport sell 86mm and 87mm flat top pistons and rings to suit for the L6's $244 for the piston set and $155 for the rings

Congratulations, how you going to get 86 or 87mm out of an L24 or L26 block???

I am doing what you guys are talking about now!

I'm re building an L20ET motor .... cough, cough, ................ 2818cc (87mm bore) L28 crank, P90 head, flat top pistons, VG30 turbo etc etc etc and I'm going to have about 250 at the wheels.

The cost ................. about $10000.00

How much are you going to spend???

Cheers, D.

[Ghostrider]

I'm not trying to sound too condescending, but everything you talk about costs lots of dollars.

If your going to use a P90 head, you have to use flat top pistons to bring the compression up, because the top of the combustion chambers (cc's) is larger.

My 2818 motor has 8.7:1 static compression, that's at atmospheric pressure, add another bar (15psi) to that and it's about 16:1.

AS these parts get harder to find in Oz, our wreckers want more money for them. Recently Stewart and I were going to go halves in an engine and Z Bits wanted $1450 for the complete motor, yet Stewart got the bottom half for $600 and I was to get the head for $500. Go figure where his original cost was.

Something to consider is this, R30's need a front pan sump, yet all Zed cars had Mid & Rear pan sumps, so a conversion cost has to be accounted for. The dip stick hole can't be simply drilled through the block as they mostly have an oil return gallery, right where the hole should go, so a dipstick adaption is necessary.

There is heaps to consider when looking at this conversion and it isn't easy if you want to change blocks.

I have seen an L24ET see off a stock rex, so why would you want more than this unless you plan on going racing with it, and then your talking lots more bucks for suspension, brakes, etc etc etc.

Cheers, D

[the big JC]

I'm not trying to sound too condescending, but everything you talk about costs lots of dollars.

If your going to use a P90 head, you have to use flat top pistons to bring the compression up, because the top of the combustion chambers (cc's) is larger.

My 2818 motor has 8.7:1 static compression, that's at atmospheric pressure, add another bar (15psi) to that and it's about 16:1.

AS these parts get harder to find in Oz, our wreckers want more money for them. Recently Stewart and I were going to go halves in an engine and Z Bits wanted $1450 for the complete motor, yet Stewart got the bottom half for $600 and I was to get the head for $500. Go figure where his original cost was.

Something to consider is this, R30's need a front pan sump, yet all Zed cars had Mid & Rear pan sumps, so a conversion cost has to be accounted for. The dip stick hole can't be simply drilled through the block as they mostly have an oil return gallery, right where the hole should go, so a dipstick adaption is necessary.

There is heaps to consider when looking at this conversion and it isn't easy if you want to change blocks.

I have seen an L24ET see off a stock rex, so why would you want more than this unless you plan on going racing with it, and then your talking lots more bucks for suspension, brakes, etc etc etc.

Cheers, D

so the 86mm and 87mm pistons won't fit the l24 is that what you are saying?

Ive got a L20ET exh mani, L20ET int mani, L20ET injectors, and a KA24E tb coming nxt week and once i have the rest of the stuff i will be starting the conversion but before i do i was going to get the head recond, ported & polished, crow cam fitted, performance valvesprings, and i thourght i might get some oversize valves (what size are the stock valves?)

Quick question im fitting extractors to my car in the next few weeks i hope so far i have not got around to it so the intake manifolds has to come off and i was going to put the KA tb on it but im getting this L20ET manifold nxt week so i just wondered if that would be better to put the tb on and stick that on my car

[Ghostrider]

so the 86mm and 87mm pistons won't fit the l24 is that what you are saying?

Ive got a L20ET exh mani, L20ET int mani, L20ET injectors, and a KA24E tb coming nxt week and once i have the rest of the stuff i will be starting the conversion but before i do i was going to get the head recond, ported & polished, crow cam fitted, performance valvesprings, and i thourght i might get some oversize valves (what size are the stock valves?)

Quick question im fitting extractors to my car in the next few weeks i hope so far i have not got around to it so the intake manifolds has to come off and i was going to put the KA tb on it but im getting this L20ET manifold nxt week so i just wondered if that would be better to put the tb on and stick that on my car

That's right! 86 & 87mm pistons WILL NOT go into your L24E block.

If you have the L20ET bits coming next week, why are you putting extractors on at all when your intention is to turbo your car?

The stock inlet valves are 42mm and exhaust 35mm. If your going to port the head, concentrate on flowing the exhaust side, as the inlet side will not be as important due to it being force fed, but to breath it must get rid of the gases as fast as possible. Don't do a lot of polishing, just remove the rough bits, a mirror shine does sfa other than cost lots of dollars.

Oversize valves???? they're going to cost more than an N42 head is and that has 44mm inlets standard. Spend your dollars on a better turbo, as a pound of pressure will beat a larger valve every day of the week.

Remember your oil pump when you go turbo, it has to pump more oil so you need a bigger pump. SWR sells the best for about $185, a high flow pump, but L20ET pumps will do the job for you and probably cost a little less and bigger than an L20ET is the L28E pump.

Why are you spending $350 on a crow cam? what are the specs your looking at?? I'm using a stock L28ET cam from a P90 head on mine.

Cheers, D

[the big JC]

That's right! 86 & 87mm pistons WILL NOT go into your L24E block.

If you have the L20ET bits coming next week, why are you putting extractors on at all when your intention is to turbo your car?

The stock inlet valves are 42mm and exhaust 35mm. If your going to port the head, concentrate on flowing the exhaust side, as the inlet side will not be as important due to it being force fed, but to breath it must get rid of the gases as fast as possible. Don't do a lot of polishing, just remove the rough bits, a mirror shine does sfa other than cost lots of dollars.

Oversize valves???? they're going to cost more than an N42 head is and that has 44mm inlets standard. Spend your dollars on a better turbo, as a pound of pressure will beat a larger valve every day of the week.

Remember your oil pump when you go turbo, it has to pump more oil so you need a bigger pump. SWR sells the best for about $185, a high flow pump, but L20ET pumps will do the job for you and probably cost a little less and bigger than an L20ET is the L28E pump.

Why are you spending $350 on a crow cam? what are the specs your looking at?? I'm using a stock L28ET cam from a P90 head on mine.

Cheers, D

cam specs

valve timing

IN.39/73

EX.75/37

DUR

292

0.75 DUR

225

Valve lift

.495"

would a l20et cam be any better than the stock l24e one cos i can probly get one from the guy im getting the other stuff from .

i almost for got about the oil pump i remember now that i have spoke to you about it before and the reason im putting extractors on is that i got a perfectly good set for free and im still not gonna be starting the conversion for a few months im just starting to collect things.

and with the l20et inlet mani would that make any difference putting that on my N/A l24e?

[Ghostrider]

cam specs

valve timing

IN.39/73

EX.75/37

DUR

292

0.75 DUR

225

Valve lift

.495"

would a l20et cam be any better than the stock l24e one cos i can probly get one from the guy im getting the other stuff from .

i almost for got about the oil pump i remember now that i have spoke to you about it before and the reason im putting extractors on is that i got a perfectly good set for free and im still not gonna be starting the conversion for a few months im just starting to collect things.

and with the l20et inlet mani would that make any difference putting that on my N/A l24e?

The L20ET manifold will give you better low down torque, but you will lose a bit of top end, no matter wether on the n/a or turbo motor. It's the inside diameter of the runners that causes the problem this way.

AS for the cam, the biggie in a turbo cam is LOBE SEPARATION, it has to be 109+ degrees, preferably 110.

Cheers, D

[the big JC]

The L20ET manifold will give you better low down torque, but you will lose a bit of top end, no matter wether on the n/a or turbo motor. It's the inside diameter of the runners that causes the problem this way.

AS for the cam, the biggie in a turbo cam is LOBE SEPARATION, it has to be 109+ degrees, preferably 110.

Cheers, D

so will the l20et cam work or if not what about a L28 N/A one

[nixcars]

Paul22, this may interest you!

"L28 TURBO ENGINE 4 SALE - This engine was built by SWR & runs a P90 turbo head, T3 turbo, EFI manifold with 300ZX 55mm T/B, Wolf 3D ECU, FJ20 turbo injectors, electronic ignition, 125kw@w on 8psi boost & has only travelled 15,000 kms. It also comes with the electric fuel pump & swirl pot, a 2.5" exhaust system & the modified rev tacho. Engine is still in the car (260Z), can hear it run & test drive. All relevant paperwork & receipts are also available for viewing.

Price: $4500ono Location: Wollongong

Contact: Nick Email: [email protected]

Phone: 0416 283 194 (hours: 9am-9pm)".

Now, I know it's a Z engine & will reqire the sump mod which I will do if you're keen on this engine.

Ghostrider is right, this costs alot of money so be prepared to spend heaps.

Oh, & Ghostrider... 86mm/87mm pistons will go in a L24, I built one a couple of years back with triple webbers & it made 135kw@wheels, it's a daily driver & also does track work from time to time & is still going strong. However, I wouldn't do it to a turbo engine...

Nick.

[the big JC]

Paul22, this may interest you!

"L28 TURBO ENGINE 4 SALE - This engine was built by SWR & runs a P90 turbo head, T3 turbo, EFI manifold with 300ZX 55mm T/B, Wolf 3D ECU, FJ20 turbo injectors, electronic ignition, 125kw@w on 8psi boost & has only travelled 15,000 kms. It also comes with the electric fuel pump & swirl pot, a 2.5" exhaust system & the modified rev tacho. Engine is still in the car (260Z), can hear it run & test drive. All relevant paperwork & receipts are also available for viewing.

Price: $4500ono Location: Wollongong

Contact: Nick Email: [email protected]

Phone: 0416 283 194 (hours: 9am-9pm)".

Now, I know it's a Z engine & will reqire the sump mod which I will do if you're keen on this engine.

Ghostrider is right, this costs alot of money so be prepared to spend heaps.

Oh, & Ghostrider... 86mm/87mm pistons will go in a L24, I built one a couple of years back with triple webbers & it made 135kw@wheels, it's a daily driver & also does track work from time to time & is still going strong. However, I wouldn't do it to a turbo engine...

Nick.

do you know if the L20ET or L28 (280zx) cams will work in an L24E and be any better than the stock L24E ones