Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

V-spec came with slightly harder suspension and active rear diff.

When you upgrade the suspension there is no difference, and since they are getting old that is almost a necessity.

The active diff is poo if it stops working and is no faster anywhere while the std has a nicely setup 2-way LSD.

On R34 it has underbody diffusers and a deeper front lip.

On R32 it has Brembos and nicer 17" wheels.

Don't waste money on V-spec unless R34.

This was covered a month ago.

Can anyone 100% confirm this?

Is it possible that a Series II only got the red trimming on the seats but, no Xenons? if in fact this is true, is there a way of adding Xenon lights in the future?

Only series III got xenons.

You can add them sure. $2000.

32 vspec 2 might b worth it, and brembos were certainly a worthy upgrade for a 32.

owning an active lsd that hasnt mess'd yet i can tell you, its slightly more everyday friendly but still locks efficiently until it blows, then its supposed to be expensive..... let you know if i ever blow mine but considering i dont do burnouts mine should prolly last 4 yonks considering my car wont ever make enough power to exceed it's limitations... i think

Serious II? Must be a limited model *S* jk

frankxinyu, Whats the difference in driveabilty V-Spec Vs Std GTR?

haha i dont know what i was thinking...haha spelling fixed.

i have not driven a normal R33 GTR, so i couldnt tell u sorry. but as ppl sated, there are some minor difference

Can anyone 100% confirm this?

Is it possible that a Series II only got the red trimming on the seats but, no Xenons? if in fact this is true, is there a way of adding Xenon lights in the future?

Yes it is if someone has changed them, only series III had red seats. You can fit xenons to any 33 GTR ( with a slight mod) but they are very expensive even second hand in Japan. Halogens are O.K. as long as they are not converted xenons and you can make them a lot brighter by feeding 14 volts to them direct and use a rely to trigger them on.

There are a few little other differences in the series III as well. the front lip is different ( lower ) than S II and S I and the brake ducts are thicker. The front passengers blinker /vent is different , the fuse box cover has GTR on it, thats all i can think of now but i'm sure i missed something .

As Geoff said the struts are harder and about 5mm lower than none V-spec, Attessa pro, ALSD and the cluster and finned diff.

the series II gtr i am buying has red stiching in the front and rear seats?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=145115

Dude if this is the car , looks like its a series II with series III seats, looks like its not a V-spec either.

I knew i forgot something series III cars have a rear fog light as well, so only one reversing light.

That is definitely NOT the car I am buying!

The car I am buying is a 97 GTR V-Spec with the LSD light on the dash, red stiching on both the front seats and rear seats and also has a red reverse light on the RH rear of the car.

Well thats probably a series III with the xenons removed for compliance . How long has it been in the country? The reason i ask is because under the old system you wouldn't have to remove the xenons, only under sevs . Have a look at the front lip/brake ducts and the front left ( passengers side)blinker grill, as i said they are different in the III, what about the fuse box cover? What month 97 ?

The red light is NOT reverse light, its a fog light.

I'm currently looking at a 96 model 33 GTR V-spec and it has Xenons (listed as factory in the sale info), am I to believe that these are not genuine? The pictures certainly show Xenons.

Back to the topic,

My understanding of main V-Spec differences were,

ATTESA E-TS PRO

10mm lower and firmer suspension

Active LSD

LSD and ATTESA Pro combine to allow torque split left and right as well as front to back ike a standard GTR. It seems to be a big debate about it's merit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...