Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all. I bought a 27mm front sway bar from SK as part of the group buy, had a lot of drama's putting it in since the bushes supplied didnt fit the bar so i had to use the stock bushes. I mounted the bar up on the medium setting and i have found it to be too stiff, so now i want to put it on the softest setting and its bloody hard to get the pin in there since the pin and the blade aree now at extreme angles.

took me around an hour and several pry bars to get the pin in.. this is with the wheel off and a jack under the LCA on both sides to take the weight off the bar itself. in fact i tried several different ways and its all too bloody hard.

pics

swaylinkei7.jpg

swaylink2qq8.jpg

see what i mean... is this right? cause it doesnt look right to me.

Whats the go

On the hardest setting on the swaybar the pin is vertical

Edited by simon-ae86
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145593-swaybar-problem/
Share on other sites

You really need to use aftermarket links which have a longer threaded section which means you can adjust the length. Its important to maintain the arm parallel to the ground so you really need to be able to adjust the length of the arm.

The bushes on mine were a pain in the ass as well. I found it was easier to just mod the saddle by opening it up a little so the bush can still be used but not such a ball ache to install.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145593-swaybar-problem/#findComment-2721475
Share on other sites

lol ball ache. yes i had that X 2

tried opening the saddles... to the point where the bolt holes wouldnt line up and the damn thing still wouldnt fit with the bar in it. I think i got the wrong bushes plain and simple.

question is. are the links suppose to come with the kit or is that extra? The rears came with links and they work a treat!

It would be pretty average if i had to pay extra for links-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145593-swaybar-problem/#findComment-2721587
Share on other sites

The softest adjustment holes are a bit of a stretch, that's normal.

The pictures are taking with the supension at full droop.

The stretch isn't as great when the suspension is at normal ride height.

:dry: cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145593-swaybar-problem/#findComment-2724081
Share on other sites

SK: acctually the pics were taken with the susp at ride height, i had a trolly jack under each LCA (you can see one in the bottom LH corner of the 2nd pic) jacking the susp right up until it was off the axle stand.

DJR: wish mine were that simple

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145593-swaybar-problem/#findComment-2725077
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...