Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Obviuosly manual.

Anything rwd with decent power. I'm assuming that you don't have a skyline?

No your mum's auto vn commo will not drift well.

Basically, any turbo skyline/silvia/rx7 etc etc will drift ok

na cars can be drifted more and require more skill.

General mods required:

mech diff (a must, once you move from the stock viscous to a mech, you'll notice the diff. When the stock one single wheels, you'll lose control)

suspensions

seat and harness are nice, so you aren't always triyng to brace yourself off the door etc.

stock power is enough to learn on, but air filter, exhaust, highflow cat, fmic won't hurt.

oil cooler depending on how hard you drift (on a 31 degree day, my r33 was starting to get hot, but I drive hard)

camber, castor, swaybars etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723431
Share on other sites

RX7's ARE NOT GOOD FOR STARTING TO DRIFT IN.

The only cars you should be looking at are S13 Silvias or maybe DR30/31 Skylines. Someone may be able too drop futher info on those skylines for you compared too the S13.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723451
Share on other sites

anyone watch serious performance 7 i htink.. when the drifter got into the stock auto VT and piled in 4 mates too..... i think it was adam newton if im not mistaken, he did alright, and would have done 100 times better if he had just an LSD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723475
Share on other sites

thanks man naa not yet but yer im lookin for a skyline though im from wa as well where r the drift practice days

check out

www.driftwa.com

or

http://westdrift.com/

you will get all the information you need on where to drift in perth and how much it will cost you :)

AndyMac: it doesnt matter what car you have, althou you think an rx7 will be hard to learn in, other people may fine it quick easy;

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723479
Share on other sites

anyone watch serious performance 7 i htink.. when the drifter got into the stock auto VT and piled in 4 mates too..... i think it was adam newton if im not mistaken, he did alright, and would have done 100 times better if he had just an LSD

Anything can be drifted. My last rental vt commo was pretty fun even though it was auto.

like It was said above, it's how well it drifts, and how easy it is to learn.

What's wrong with rx7s?

My friends fd is very easy to drift. Stock, they're pretty neutral in terms of over/understeer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723484
Share on other sites

' date='3 Dec 2006, 08:22 PM' post='2723479']

check out

www.driftwa.com

or

http://westdrift.com/

you will get all the information you need on where to drift in perth and how much it will cost you :)

AndyMac: it doesnt matter what car you have, althou you think an rx7 will be hard to learn in, other people may fine it quick easy;

thanks man i wil have a look at them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723493
Share on other sites

manual r31 skyline

pull out diff centre, weld it up

has n/a rb30 so enough torque to go for gold. if you get desperate for more power just whack on vl turbo setup. then it'll tyre fry no worries

and some average to half decent shocks money permitting

can even chuck in s13 front arms to go down the s13 coilover route

live axle so its fun to drift with. no hicas or irs dramas

fatz from this forum can prove they are good to go for a cheap weekend fun car ---->

cheers, MARK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723510
Share on other sites

Get an NA car weild the diff....stiffen it to buggery...have a manual and a handbrake that works really well. A corolla with a 4age is fun......a skyline is fun but tends to steer out of a drift cause of the HICAS (remove it and its good). Learning in an underpowered car can teach you to take the right line a speed, can get your confidence up, with a turbo car you can have other problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723511
Share on other sites

fatz from this forum can prove they are good to go for a cheap weekend fun car ---->

lol look at all that body roll, im guessin its still got stock suspension..... any more info on that car?

nice to see the vid stopped right before he speared off the track in that first bit of the clip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2723577
Share on other sites

lol look at all that body roll, im guessin its still got stock suspension..... any more info on that car?

nice to see the vid stopped right before he speared off the track in that first bit of the clip

That vid was taken when it was a stock standard R31 Silo, prob with a welded diff.....

this is what they did to it :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2724100
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just wait till it rains and take your shit box auto commy out and learn that way. Thats what i did i got a feel for drift first then started to progress from there. Then when you progress more then mods start comming from what you know you and your car needs to feel right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145796-drifting/#findComment-2784876
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...