Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for some adjustable camber arms for my R32 and JJR has these ones +/-4 deg. and wondering if anyone here has had them installed, and what you think of them.

Do they really have the 4 deg adjustment? any major dramas with them?

Please write about own experiences if possible, avoid the " I've heard that a mate of a mate....."

Cheers

Ric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145921-jjr-upper-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yup i bought a set, installed them in the car, drove around the block and then jacked car up to double check tightness of everything and what do ya know... BOTH arms had cracked their welds.

demanded my money back and vowed never ever to buy another just jap product

which ones are we talking about? the dog-bone shaped ones?

If it is those ones I have a set in my car. as far as the adjustment goes I could only get a max of 2 degrees or thereabouts. this is because after they are screwed in a bit the two halves touch each other inside the turnbuckle. if you cut down those threaded sections you could get more adjustment.

they haven't failed me in any way, but after 1 trackday and about 150kms of driving they started squeaking like crazy. haven't been able to cure it yet.

Yes these are the ones, Front ones.

Are you serious Simon? thats not good at all, did you get any explanation from JJR as to why they could have cracked? installation or something?

How about some Noltec ones anyone tried this ones, how much adjustment can you get?

Cheers

Ric

ahh, mine are completely different to those ones which is why I asked. those are rears I believe. I was talking about some fronts.

i'm talking about these ones:

jjrupperadjarmsgtr.jpg

They have a very similar design to the ones i got from japan, except mine are symmetric. i.e. the threaded parts dont have 1 longer than the other. Seems to me like it would be more hassle to do this... 3 different parts instead of 2 different parts

Looking at the Noltec catalogue, adjustment is via the 2 parts of the arm sliding inside each other and then are locked with grub screws (think camber tops, that style of sliding and locking).

N52088.jpg

These designs are known for slipping when used for control arms. They also retail for $691.43 according to their site...

Have you thought about just getting camber adjustable bushes? These are under $200, last time I looked (a while ago) they were being redeveloped to stop the excessive wear of one of the bushes and they were also coming down in price. They have now come down to $187 (i think) so I assume they are now stiffer and last longer?

yes, i considered the noltel arms, but just couldn't see all those little cap screws holding the thing together.

the JJR ones I have a 'inspired' by the midori made upper arms. they are a good design. just need a little tweaking imo.

First off have a read of this thread;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=spherical

Keep in mind that almost all of the “retail” camber kits are designed to REMOVE the negative camber that occurs when Skylines are lowered. This is because the “road car market” is far larger than the “race car market” and they are looking at excessive inside tyre wear as the major problem that they need to overcome by adjusting the camber.

Keeping that in mind, the standard R32 style upper control arm is 190 mm long, centre of the outer bolt to the centre of the inner bolt. Using the off the shelf adjustable, offset, outer bush (Whiteline etc) reduces that to 184 mm. This gives around 2 to 2.5 degrees of negative camber on an R32 with a ride height around 355 mm centre of wheel to guard with around 6.5 degrees of caster on a 2wd and 5.0 degrees on a 4wd.

That is usually enough camber/caster, provided sufficient anti roll is used (larger stabiliser bars), for most circuits. High speed circuits with long sweeping radius curves (eg; Philip Island) need slightly more camber.

So we use the off the shelf adjustable, offset bush (Whiteline etc) in the inner of the upper control arm. That reduces the length to around 180 mm. This gives around 3.0 to 3.5 degrees of negative camber on an R32 with a ride height around 355 mm centre of wheel to guard with around 6.5 degrees of caster on a 2wd and 5.0 degrees on a 4wd.

This 180 mm length seems to have been the minimum that ALL of the R32 camber adjusters have been made to. All of the brands of upper control arms that I have measured (Noltec, Nismo, Ikeya etc) all stop at 180 mm or longer. So choosing one brand over another to get more negative camber is pretty much a waste of time.

:) Cheers :)

Hi,

Just got these installed on my car, as Beer Baron says u can only get max -2degree adjustment out of them.

When i was deciding between the noltec one and the jjr one it was a fairly easy choice.

You should have a read of SydneyKid's thread on upper arms, very informative read.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91064

Hope that helps.

Stan.

Woops, too slow in my reply.

Edited by SNG

Yeah they stay at -5 all the time. Pictures of my car sideways shows the outside tyre flat on the road so this is good.

Drift events in wa are months apart so ive been using standard arms for daily driving inbetween then come drift time I fit the JIC's (which takes me 45mins). It looks like garage-13.com are selling these arms from $175.

Willow.... Do garage-13 have a website? thats cheap as!

SK....was jsut having a look at the whiteline catalogue for these camber kits which is the part number im looking for? the only one they seem to have is only +/-0.5 deg. which seems extremely low adjustment, any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Ric

Yeah they stay at -5 all the time. Pictures of my car sideways shows the outside tyre flat on the road so this is good.

Drift events in wa are months apart so ive been using standard arms for daily driving inbetween then come drift time I fit the JIC's (which takes me 45mins).

What camber does it have with the standard arms fitted?

:wub: cheers :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...