Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

This is my GTT over the years

The day I bought it off FLN75S901438_10152700515230198_1347706032_o.thumb.jpg.4132ab0120848486b143b211a0ffda04.jpg

Lost the lip and was wingless for a bit

11538977_10155672167515198_6519762481535571487_o.thumb.jpg.117720b0f19ba878b22141052f178c5b.jpg11010501_10155672167315198_2191215101598066288_o.thumb.jpg.9f0b5d227e7dd736a46af724e279225c.jpg

Got some SSW Driftr wheels (TE37 replicas)

11058565_10155753071965198_5020753380228039855_o.thumb.jpg.2c7a9fa8f70992c1ccb6aa886b4dd400.jpg

11781883_10155796487990198_2376410430343795023_n.jpg.2da681d7b4e9e39bf5fdf690b64702af.jpg

 

Got a carbon fibre replica GT-R wing with higher wing stays

12657400_10156405212525198_6515840979751577195_o.thumb.jpg.2c5cf05161eed3023a093771dbd6e7c1.jpg

 

Then I got an Altia bar and JDM style platesIMG_1119.thumb.JPG.302e768248206501e364006eda142d34.JPG

 

and this is how she is currently with AME TM-02 Tracers and Bride Brix IIs19780756_10158781817305198_3694660254643074733_o.thumb.jpg.dc717e84c35130e583a1fad12a1ce664.jpg

17390841_10158237952050198_775973085820717962_o.thumb.jpg.3f07e774938039af522aff54823de905.jpg

19024985_650056201864976_3616339785100149794_o.thumb.jpg.5d1e2b11b90bcd00405485ad451ea1bf.jpg19025188_650055771865019_7613867931626438230_o.thumb.jpg.a9b59f0790c575d62a1412d96d539dde.jpg

Last 2 photos by HP Photography

Edited by vinceyboy28
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Playing around near home on a winter's afternoon!

MrnPYlP.jpg

This car looks amazing, the stock bodykit with the front lip and sideskirt extensions look perfect on a gtt. Not a fan of the nismo front bar or gtr bar on gtt.

What specs are those rpf1's? Looks like your running a fair bit of camber.
  • Like 1
22 hours ago, vxsr33 said:


This car looks amazing, the stock bodykit with the front lip and sideskirt extensions look perfect on a gtt. Not a fan of the nismo front bar or gtr bar on gtt.

What specs are those rpf1's? Looks like your running a fair bit of camber.

Thanks mate! :D

The wheels are 17x9 +22 all round

I think the camber is a combination of the camera angle and from installing a new subframe and coilovers and not getting an alignment yet :( When they are flat they fit fairly well :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...