Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks really good, wheels/ride sit nice, the side mirrors look good to are they cf? I love the no wing look, been meaning to do it for ages, but gota find someone to weld holes up/paint etc. Oh and the money to do it

cheers mate - altho they did need a bit of stretch and a slight guard roll to make em sit sweet! what do you expect tho :)

the mirrors are just painted black, it was like that when i got it! looks ok tho hey? :D it COULD be cf from a distance lol

Definitely Millenium Jade or Black! :nyaanyaa: Any plans for it?

Some shots of mine today while going for a little Sunday drive with friends:

38268_453087789049_615379049_6258239_2848092_n.jpg

37553_413736568193_505758193_4460282_540162_n.jpg

37553_413736588193_505758193_4460286_6112288_n.jpg

Farrrk Huy your 34R is mint! Such a nice stance to!

Mine is like the baby version of yours haha. Black, Shitter GT-T, Shitter bronze CR Kai Wheels, GT-R rear pods and skirts, Shitter Rb25, Shitter single turbo, Shitter rear guards that can't fit 10.5" wide wheels, Not a GT-R.

Makes me want to sell and upgrade :)

Edited by Chris34
is that the stock rear undertray ? looks sweeeeeeet

Sure is.

Question though, do the stock ones come with the fins?

I've got my rear diffuser but it seems to not have come with the 4 fins, I can see the mounting holes but yeah.

Farrrk Huy your 34R is mint! Such a nice stance to!

Mine is like the baby version of yours haha. Black, Shitter GT-T, Shitter bronze CR Kai Wheels, GT-R rear pods and skirts, Shitter Rb25, Shitter single turbo, Shitter rear guards that can't fit 10.5" wide wheels, Not a GT-R.

Makes me want to sell and upgrade :P

Cheers, mate. Nissan did a great job with this car. I'm just fortunate enough to own it.

Sure is.

Question though, do the stock ones come with the fins?

I've got my rear diffuser but it seems to not have come with the 4 fins, I can see the mounting holes but yeah.

Yeah man, it's based on the V-Spec / V-Spec II rear carbon fibre diffuser.

All comes like that from factory.

Yeah man, it's based on the V-Spec / V-Spec II rear carbon fibre diffuser.

All comes like that from factory.

Yeah, I was under the V-spec the other day, and noticed the fins were missing.

Best source those..

Cheers

Love the colour. :)

IMO, R34 GTRs need the front diffuser to look complete at the front.

im a bit different because i dont mind the way mine is at the front, but i think to finish off a gtr it needs z tune side skirts and rear pods so when you see it side on the whole car sits level unlike having the front sitting lower than the rest of the car.

Will have more photos once I get the SAU trackday dvd but here is some of my R34 GTR Vspec @ Wakefield

p.s - it has a faulty o2 sensor so power fc disabled them and running purely on a tune hence the lovely poo stain.. so if anyone knows anyone with some o2 sensors please let me know got several places trying to get em but apparently hard to get nissan stuff at the moment if not in stock.

Cars getting detailed on Sunday so will try to get some nice shots once it cleaned up lol

post-31217-1279807064_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1279807182_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1279807210_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1279807252_thumb.jpg

Had some free time so my mate and I went and took some shots. Enjoy.

John-e-boi that is one of the sexy~est R34s ive seen in a long time! I had to do a double take when I saw your gtr steering wheel. :D Where did you get the bride seats from? Im keen to get some for my 34.

Yeah, I was under the V-spec the other day, and noticed the fins were missing.

Best source those..

Cheers

Hmm... Really, must be a "Nur" item...

Will have more photos once I get the SAU trackday dvd but here is some of my R34 GTR Vspec @ Wakefield

p.s - it has a faulty o2 sensor so power fc disabled them and running purely on a tune hence the lovely poo stain.. so if anyone knows anyone with some o2 sensors please let me know got several places trying to get em but apparently hard to get nissan stuff at the moment if not in stock.

Cars getting detailed on Sunday so will try to get some nice shots once it cleaned up lol

I was going to say... Your running rich :P

My mechanic replaced both my O2 Sensors for about $100 each, I don't think they were OEM Nissan ones though...

Aftermarket should do you fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...