Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure it will mate! Your 34R is the best I've seen in yellow. I got one set of stickers previous to those but I didn't like the outline, so found the red set which were perfect

Cheers mate. Yea ny wheels are te37sl but I didn't like the red with the yellow, so will see how they work out. Will post pics once there on.

Dang son, very well done. What are the specs on your wheel fitment?

Also, how did you tint the reverse lights?? DIY?

Cheers Tom,

19x9.5 +12 all around, front and rear guards are both rolled to flatten the lip and pulled out a few mm.

Reverse lights are tinted using a gloss black tint film (not like window tint) i stock, as were the rear indicators which i now have precut pieces to suit 34 tail light indicators. The beauty of it is when you throw it in reverse or put on your indicators they are still clear as day, almost no reduction in brightness with the tint film on.

Cheers Tom,

19x9.5 +12 all around, front and rear guards are both rolled to flatten the lip and pulled out a few mm.

Reverse lights are tinted using a gloss black tint film (not like window tint) i stock, as were the rear indicators which i now have precut pieces to suit 34 tail light indicators. The beauty of it is when you throw it in reverse or put on your indicators they are still clear as day, almost no reduction in brightness with the tint film on.

Sounds the goods Stephen, I just bought some cst zero-1 hyper in 18x9.5 + 15 all around, so the fitment should be very similar to yours :yes: . What tyre sizes are you running, and do you get any scrubbing on full lock?

Considering you run a graphic business, I'm guessing you can supply the tint film?

PM me details if this is the case :thanks:

Sounds the goods Stephen, I just bought some cst zero-1 hyper in 18x9.5 + 15 all around, so the fitment should be very similar to yours :yes: . What tyre sizes are you running, and do you get any scrubbing on full lock?

Considering you run a graphic business, I'm guessing you can supply the tint film?

PM me details if this is the case :thanks:

Ah very nice,

Tyres are 235/35/19 up front and 265/30/19 rear.

With the front plastic guard liners removed there is almost no scrubbing on full lock.

I'm thinking of adding camber arms to give it just a little neg camber and also hopefully help it tuck more when leaning into a corner/going down a large dip, as if i corner too hard it will scrub a little on i believe the guard. Also going down a dip really fast which naturally compresses the coilovers tends to cause a little scrape.

Will send you a PM regarding the tint film.

Some pics I dug up off my hard drives.

Love em!!

post-12712-0-16784400-1355396282_thumb.jpg

Hey thats my car :) , geez long time since that photo taken some changes since then. ( wheels, bonnet :) , some slight damage to lower lip :( )

Glad it made it onto the must keep photos lol

Its actually a Fluro Orange, (Which you prob still might not like lol) the shitty iPhone Camera does not even show you how bright these are, thought they would be something a bit different for summer.

They were originally a white rim and I Plastic Dipped them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...