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By joshuaho96 · Posted
Sure, but personally I'm a big fan of when you have a problem, don't make it harder to diagnose by changing more variables all at once. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
I recall you're going to launch the OEM ECU into the bin in another post, unpopular opinion but throw the AAC, IACV, cable throttle & pedal all into the bin and convert to DBW e-throttle & pedal. For quick install (minimum fab work) these guys have a great bit of kit: https://outsidergarage.com/products/nissan-rb25-oem-dbw-conversion-kit Hit up @outsidergarage for more details. (I'm not affiliated nor do I use them) -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
Nice! I hope it all works out. At least now you know the track as well and can build from last year. Looking forward to see your car in action again. Ooof. Godspeed! -
We let the engine warm up as much as it could while stationary and with the head check plugged into the open radiator but I see you're point that it would be difficult to get it to the point where it begins to overheat. The overheating issue only began after the initial problem with the empty radiator. Until then I had driven the car almost daily without any issues (with the gktech fan etc.) I'm beginning to suspect butters may be right and that it's a head gasket issue, just difficult to find the time to work on the car lately. And whether or not it's even worth doing the head gasket etc. on the 20 when I am, extremely slowly, building a 25 for this car. -
Yeah, alright, I take it back. I hadn't bothered to compare the terminal numbers - they're not the same. I was working on the presumption that it was the "small plug" half of the HICAS CU because it has the same plug as the small plug on the HICAS CU. And...the drawing says "Refer to Super HICAS system circuit diagram" which seemed to place it firmly in the world of HICAS, not non-HICAS.
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