Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This might sound like a stupid question but I am just wondering why my car is so difficult to control sliding??

It's a 180sx with an RB25 with Tein coilovers.

It's easy enough to get sliding with the power it's making but to keep it going is pretty hard compared to my old 180 (sr20,lowered springs).

It's also got Azenis semi-slicks on the rear.

I've noticed that the inside of the rear tyres are worn more than the outside, would a wheel alignment help me out here or has anyone got any other ideas..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147223-car-difficult-to-slide/
Share on other sites

well the wear on the inside edge of the rear tyres is due to the angle, which is called camber, and in your case Negative camber. Im pretty sure that actually helps with the process of sliding.

And i dont know if using semi slicks is going to help you, i mean i was under the impression using semis would increase grip.

semis on the rear = more traction at rear. The rear of the car does not want to slide.

normal tyres at the front = less traction at front than rear.

Therefore, the front will plough outwards when you're trying to drift. Traction should be the other way round.

what are your alignment settings?

Also, when you say drift, are you actually trying to do it properly? or are you just doing some fully sik shkids around on the road?

If you're doing it on the road, obviously, it's more difficult, because it's narrow, and you'd be scared of running into things/cars/people.

Semi's are for traction (ie:circuit), but decent tyres are used by the pro's.

With the RB25 at the front you have totally upset the "ballance" of the car. It is now more front heavy, engine overhangs the wheels further, and the centre of gravity is a little higher.

When drifting, BALLANCE IS VERY IMPORTANT. :P Stick with the SR!

I know the Azenis are part of the problem, but I have driven the car with a pair of old rock hard tyres with hardly any tread and it was better, but still not what I was hoping for..

The only reason they are on there is because they came on the wheels when I bought the car.

I have no idea what my allignment settings are, would my best option be to get the car properly alligned?

Any suggestions

Suggestionsfor Brisbane southside? What should I be expecting to pay roughly?

Accurate suspension. Prob $60 dude. Its just a wheel alinement. Most wheel/tyre/ suspension shops can do them.

Part of the problem too could be your still getting used to the car, and therefore arent 100% confident or commited when in the corner.

Like Al said, balance. Get the same tyres front to rear, get an allignment and it should be a lot better. But unfortunatly the rb is much heavier than the sr and has upset the balance of the car, what you dont want to do now is go soft at the front and hard at the rear, this will make it break away easier, but more difficult to control.

i drove a freshly built 180 that wasn't mine with no wheel alignment done, no suspension tuning, and azenis on the back @ QR, and it wasn't too bad. the rear felt very stiff, and it had around 220rwkw. could be more to do with your suspension setup, and front/rear balance - but a good alignment is also a must.

you drifting on a track or "somewhere else?"

"Hard to keep going" as in the back end hooks up and gets grip, or you're spinning out?

With all that grip in the back (assuming you're running shit front tyres) and all the weight from the RB, the car should understeer. Assuming you've got the power to keep the wheels spinning (you say you can get it to start sliding, so initial understeer isn't an issue), it should be easy to control since the understeer makes the rear less likely to come around on you.

yeah alot of pro drifters use semi slicks on they're cars, but your not a pro i guess.

I would say you due to the weight difference at the frony you may have to get your suspension checked out and perhaps even change the front springs/shocks. Or maybe your just not used to it yet

yeah alot of pro drifters use semi slicks on they're cars, but your not a pro i guess.

Yeah, but they won't use less grippy tyres on the front. They'll run semis all round.

But I'd concur with checking the suspension. Make sure the back springs / dampers / swaybars are hard enough, and maybe get some more toe out. If you can rotate the tyres and put the RT215s up front and the less grippy tyres on the rear, that will also help.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...