Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Decided to get a power run done while getting the welsh plugs changed and a service. Check it out:

post-26053-1166170601.jpg

post-26053-1166170645.jpg

What you guys think? All looks good to me, but the jump on the psi readyfrom 7 to 9 is a bit steep isnt it? Car is running on stock settings, except for the turbo back exhaust and the pod filter. Stock power is around 135 kws right?

Thanks goes out to Ray & RE Customs again - changed the welsh plugs (which were on their last legs), performed the service and the power run. >_<

(sorry about the scanned pics being so big)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147517-finally-got-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

The boost jumping from 7 to 9 is because of the factory 2 stage boost solenoid.

Standard it jumps from 5psi below 4500rpm, to 7psi at 4500rpm and above...

A full turbo back exhaust will increase boost automatically by around 2psi, which is why its now 7/9psi instead of 5/7psi.

Do the 1 stage boost 'mod' and you'll have more power down low, as it will always boost straight to 9psi rather than waiting till 4500rpm.

it will be spiking a bit higher from the exhaust

my gtst with stock everything made 141rwkw

hmm....so around 23 kw gain (if i was using that figure) - is it worth while enclosing the podfilter in a box? I heard this helps it gain a little bit more power (though i would think the difference is negligible)

does the turbotech boost controller get rid of the 2 stage? or is a computer mod the only way to fix the 2 stage thing? i'm guessing R34 has the 2 stage as well?

the turbotech will get rid of it, because you'll be bypassing the stock solenoid...

the 'mod' is pretty easy...cut the black wire running out of the solenoid, and ground it to something near by, wallah.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...