R33 Boost Cut & Ecu

[R33silverS2]

As i said i experienced this problem after my exhaust install. - vic

set my boost to 10 with manual controller and it will hold 10 till about 5000rpm then creep up to abou 12 by redline. and yes, the solenoid has been removed...

[R31Nismoid]

Install an EBC

Or Install a better actuator (the better option)

[R33silverS2]

Install an EBC

Or Install a better actuator (the better option)

do you think an rb20 actuator? or an aftermarket one of some description?

[adikt]

EBC wont make any difference, ive got one & same problem.

i guess a new actuator would be the cheapest option at this stage.

just gotta find a decent one at a decent price

[mad082]

what part of the exhaust install was it that this happened? if it was after the dump pipe was installed, i'd say that where the wastegate is opening, the dump pipe is sitting slightly out of place and the wastegate isn't flowing properly.

[R33silverS2]

what part of the exhaust install was it that this happened? if it was after the dump pipe was installed, i'd say that where the wastegate is opening, the dump pipe is sitting slightly out of place and the wastegate isn't flowing properly.

I got everything done at once over two days, turbo back exhaust, cooler etc so i dunno unfortunately.

[adznight]

From experience (both those turbos have been installed on my car) the satandad hole is more than enough to prevent creep.

if yoiu are haning troubles with an RB25 turb on rb25 use an RB20 actuaaor or take off your actuator and elongate the holes or bend the rod to give more preload.

Yup, have seen that fix too, Bass Junky's car. He just bent the thing. Poor response was the actuator not the wastegate.

[Ultimategtr]

hey sorry to bring up an old thread!

im getting jasma dump pipe and front pipe done in my R33 this friday..

currently its running a 3.5inch catback(not too sure on size but im pretty sure its either 3 or 3.5.. with a 5inch tip with a silencer..

will that cause mine to creep up as well? im running stock boost with just a pod filter. boosts 5/7psi.

Thanks!

[Strik3r]

you wont really know for sure until you try. It will depend entirely on how high flowing the exhaust is. If your only running stock boost, i wouldnt worry too much about the creep.. will just give you a nice little kick in the high range

[WogsRus]

yeah well i installed an R32 actuator, OK in the first 2 gears, creeps maybe 2 psi now vs 5 before, but in 4 th pulled 13.3 psi max, yeeeehhhaaaa.

The R32 actuator is sooo much better in responce to teh stock 7psi one. I love it, but it means that i can't run low boost now, so just a temp sollution for me.

[Ultimategtr]

Wogsrus - how hard was it to install the R32 actuator?

Im thinking if i get the boost creep i might "Bend" the stocker

[WogsRus]

takes 10 minuts, undo heat sheild, undo lip, and hosing, undo 4 bolts, VERY EASY

[dougfuller]

hey guys im also getting boost creep and i have the r32 actuator, with FMIC, POD, DUMP, Down pipe, high flow cat, cat back zorst, running no boost controller.

tho the vacuum fitting im getting to go to the actuator is coming from the manifold and not the hot pipe close to the turbo will this cure it?

also ! will a screamer dump pipe fix the boost creep? as in this being the ultimate high flow wastegate?

if none of these can fix it only thing left is porting the wastegate!!!

any help would be great! thanx

[The Mafia]

what a crock of shit most of this thread is about external gates for factory turbos, and free flowing exhausts causing overboost etc.

Oh, and I can stand up and speak because I had this problem.

Want to know how I solved it?

I installed and tuned a Powerfc.

Reason:

The Factory ECU runs that shit rich and retarded that it creates heaps of exhaust gas and creeps boost. With my Turbo set at 5psi, it would ALWAYS creep to 10psi. I couldn't stop it, I tried everything.

As soon as I put the powerfc in it stopped. Then I cranked it up to 12.5psi and ran 210rwkw.

The mechanic telling you that you need an external gate is a wanker - he doesn't know what he's talking about, and is only trying to milk you for money.

ahahahah this thread cracked me up.

The R32 actuator is sooo much better in responce to teh stock 7psi one. I love it, but it means that i can't run low boost now, so just a temp sollution for me.

Without trying to offend, but someone that can't control anything other than max boost with their foot, is retarded and shouldn't own a turbo car...

Edited September 10, 2007 by The Mafia

[Munkyb0y]

^ i take it this would also apply to any form of fuel/timing management? ie. piggyback.

[Finny]

Ok I have researched this for AGES because I was having some boost cut issues.

Ok I installed an SAFCII and while installing it I notised that the previous owner was a fool and installed a turbo smart fuel cut defender on it which was actually making the ECU go spastic. I removed this and there was no more boost cut, I could run 16psi through it stock ECU and it didn't have a care in the world. It did R&R (Rich and Retard) some times but my experience with R&R was that it only made you lose a little bit of power and it wasn't really that notisable but if I ran 14psi it had more power than at 16psi due to R&R.

I also installed an R32 Actuator and I actually prefer my stock actuator. I have a boost controller but when that isn't connected the car hits about 4.5psi quickly then really struggles to get to 10psi which it hits at abotu 5500rpm. With the stock actuator the car hit 7psi really fast and held that all the way. With my boost controller hocked up the wastegate still opens earler than the stock R33 actuator so my boost builds quicker with the stock one over the R32 actuator.

Also my car boost creaps hard with R33 stock actuator and does the same thing with R32 actuator but just a little less I assume this is because I am getting less power with the R32 actuator due to less boost over the rev range. I have a single muffler 3" system with no restriction, I have a one piece dump pipe so no issues with the wastegate not opening fully, I think I will resolve this by putting a new turbo on it with a bigger internal gate.

[gts-4 dreamer]

stock wastegate spring = 5psi, stock controller = extra 2psi hold... if your actuator was 7psi you would be incapable of getting the "low boost" 5psi without some weird and wonderful configuration with alternate gating etc...

second... if you have boost creep of more than 2psi on stock turbo with stock gate / spring loading then you need to check your boost controller.

no personal experience with the 32 actuator what so ever but in theory from what ive read sounds like it shouldnt be acting that way but id leave that to someones actual experience.

[The Mafia]

^ i take it this would also apply to any form of fuel/timing management? ie. piggyback.

yeah man, if you can lean the mixtures then you can control this a little better.

BUT just remember its a factor of a lot of things. Removing that extra fuel helps though.

I'm sure advancing the timing a little will help too, but watch for ping!!

[Finny]

I am stuck at this stage... need a PFC.. but they are so rare for RB25s unless you want to pay $1600.

which is what people who pay $900 from Japan before they where discontinued expect you to pay.

[teng]

I am stuck at this stage... need a PFC.. but they are so rare for RB25s unless you want to pay $1600.

which is what people who pay $900 from Japan before they where discontinued expect you to pay.

I got lucky. I got the PFC and Combo Handheld version bundled onto one box from someone on ebay australia for $1700. It has the PFC ECR33 xxx-xxxx on the model serial number instead of the PFC RB25 xxx-xxxx from most PFC i've seen.