Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Tell The Year Of A R33?

Torques

By Torques,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I needed a new (used) car and came across this ad:

R33

(Yes, I'm in the UK)

I liked the car, because this one is not modified and has not any embarrassing mods or spoilers.

The price is 12,500 AUD.

Though the price sounded a bit steep to me I had a look at the car.

Had A Look At The Car

In reality it didn't look that gorgeous anymore, but I still liked it.

I did some checks on the car, and followed an advice I got to verify the year:

The year of manufacture can be found by looking at the front seatbelts, near the floor mounting point. There is a fabric tag with the seatbelt specifications and the year of manufacture sewn onto the webbing.

So I checked the tag and it said 1993! ;)

I pointed this out to the seller, and he said that the seatbelt might have been replaced ..

I think that's quite a far fetched story, but are there any things apart from the tag to tell the year?

I checked many Skyline pictures, and all with the year 95 seem to have an airbag.

There's a number on the firewall where the engine sits and it says:

ECR33-002864

If this is some kind of serial number, it sounds pretty low to me and would support the 1993 tag year.

Hmmmmm .....

Is there any check I can do on the number?

I still like the car, and the engine made a good impression on me.

I'm a complete beginner with Skylines and any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks for the help!

Greetings from London!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147634-how-to-tell-the-year-of-a-r33/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Car is a '93 or '94 model ;)

- Seat belts are manufactured by another business, so they can be done in advance.

- The engine has the coil igniter modual, on the top, at the rear (near the firewall), which only came out in '93 or '94 cars.

- Has the S1 rear spoiler

- No airbag

ShylineR33 Rookie

ShylineR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

"The price is 12,500 AUD.

Though the price sounded a bit steep to me"

Hi,

I would have thought $12500 for an R33 with 69000km on the clock, was little on the too good to be true end of the scale if anything...

Damien

Edited by ShylineR33
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
"The price is 12,500 AUD.

Though the price sounded a bit steep to me"

Hi,

I would have thought $12500 for an R33 with 69000km on the clock, was little on the too good to be true end of the scale if anything...

Damien

No, it represents the upper limit for such a car in the UK and I'd only pay the amount for a 95 in mint condition.

As for the milage you should consider if such a low milage is realistic for an 11 year old car.

The car in the link (true 95) below is at 13,000 AUD and also at the top range of prices.

Besides note that this is not a GTR!

GTRs is what people want, so the price is higher.

Cheers

Edited by Torques
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Car is a '93 or '94 model ;)

- Seat belts are manufactured by another business, so they can be done in advance.

- The engine has the coil igniter modual, on the top, at the rear (near the firewall), which only came out in '93 or '94 cars.

- Has the S1 rear spoiler

- No airbag

:D

Thanks, I agree ... the seat belt could be made in advance ... but 2 years?

So much harder evidence seems to be the spoiler / airbag / coils.

What does S1 mean? And when came the 'new' spoiler exactly?

Can I do any research regarding the number on the firewall?

If you look at this one, it seems to be a true 95 model and I'd pay the price for it.

True 95

sloazr33 Proficient

sloazr33

Posted
Posted
:(

Thanks, I agree ... the seat belt could be made in advance ... but 2 years?

So much harder evidence seems to be the spoiler / airbag / coils.

What does S1 mean? And when came the 'new' spoiler exactly?

Can I do any research regarding the number on the firewall?

If you look at this one, it seems to be a true 95 model and I'd pay the price for it.

True 95

that one looks like a S1.5 - S1 front with S2 wing and the clear skyline boot garnish

the higher wing came on the S2 models, and on the S1.5 models

S1 is series 1 - info can be found here

S1.5 is series 1.5 - info can be found here , this is basically a S1 with the S2 wing and engine.

S2 is series 2 - info can be found here

more info on model differences can be found here

it is mainly cosmetic changes and standard options, there is other things like the coil igniter module as noted above

you can post the VIN number (number on firewall) in these threads and someone with the Nissan FAST program will check it out for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=133729

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=128496

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted (edited)
yeah it looks like a 93 - rear spoiler and steering wheel - but thats how i look at it

what is it bout the steering wheel that differentiates the models? just curious

EDIT: ok realised for myself. its the airbag right?

Edited by Basti
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good morning from the UK!

Wow ... I woke up this morning and was wondering whether there is any reply at all.

:P

Thank you so much for all the information, this is just great!

I knew from the start that the car didn't feel like a 95 model, but the seller was asking the 1995 price for it.

He stressed many times that this is a 95 model...

As for the airbag I read in a wiki that all 96 models have the airbag as standard.

I think with the VIN number I really can nail the seller down on the year.

(Unless he argues that this has been replaced as well)

Cheers!

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...