Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking to upgrade my S2 Stagea brakes (2 pot 290mm/ 1 pot 292mm) to R34 Gtt brakes (4 pot 310mm/ 2 pot 297mm) , rotors and calipers, front and back. Does anyone have any tips or advice, also, would i need to worry about the brake bias with such a change ? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148207-r34-gtt-brakes-onto-s2-stagea/
Share on other sites

Hey Chook

I've just upgraded to R34 Gtt brakes on the front of my r32. check out this thread. It may help. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=139091

I noticed your car is a 2000 model so I am guessing that the bolts and everything will be the same as the R34. That was the only modification I had to do besides cutting away the shroud to fit the bigger disk.

Good luck.

I don't think you'll need adapter plates.

Best way to check if they will fit is measure the distance between the centre of the 2 caliper mounting holes. If it's 100mm they should fit no problem.

  • 11 months later...
my only concern is the whether i would need an adaptor plate for the caliper bolts, hopefully the holes are in a standard position, thanks

Hey Chook,

Did you do this brake upgrade?

Where there any requirements for adapters?

Any other issues?

What did it cost you?

Big benefit in performance?

I need to replace my rotos and pads and am looking at similar upgrade.

Cheers,

Tee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...