Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking to get a set of cams soon and was looking at 3 choices

1) Tomie PONcams 260 in & out 9.2mm lift

2) HKS 272 in & out 8.7mm lift

3) HKS 272 in & out 10.2mm lift

Qustion is what would you go for i have 2530s on a buildt buttom end. Car will be mosty daily with some track and drag days throw in. which will be the best mid range and which best top end? Thinking of going T04Z later down the track.

Aslo besides springs what else needs to be done to fit the HKS Step 2 cams.

Head also has bronze valve guides.

Thanks Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149404-cams-duration-vs-lift/
Share on other sites

Im looking to get a set of cams soon and was looking at 3 choices

1) Tomie PONcams 260 in & out 9.2mm lift

2) HKS 272 in & out 8.7mm lift

3) HKS 272 in & out 10.2mm lift

Qustion is what would you go for i have 2530s on a buildt buttom end. Car will be mosty daily with some track and drag days throw in. which will be the best mid range and which best top end? Thinking of going T04Z later down the track.

Aslo besides springs what else needs to be done to fit the HKS Step 2 cams.

Head also has bronze valve guides.

Thanks Brad

the poncams 260deg 9.15mm are a great upgrade and very hard to beat valve for money (bolt in)

i wouldn't go long on the exhaust than inlet as a friend of mine recently found out (better all round results are gain with matched) Tomie recomend nothing over 260 deg for street use (check there web site for turbo and cam combos)

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...harger_rset.htm

All this said from my observations

street/track 260/260

drag/street 270/270

so if you want more drag and out right hp over responce the 270/270 might serve you better. Also with that same goal you might find it worth it to go to a stage 2 10.25mm+ cams (don't forget it will cost alot more with aftermarket springs and having to reshim the head)

i am yet to be convinced that going to stage 2 level on 260deg is worth the money and hassel for possible results(but who knows i have been playing with the idea of upgrade them soon)

pete

i always thought the reason to go for a bigger duration on the exhaust side was to overcome the issue with the 26 heads having poor flow on the exhaust side?

well not on a ported head i know that much for sure "gav" has been down this road and by just bring his inlet cam into line with the exhaust made good alround gains from memory.

pete

anything bigger than poncams and youll need to upgrade your valve train, solid lifters, stronger springs etc.

poncams are good cause they just bolt in,

cheers

actually there are quite a few other options than the 260/9.15 poncams that will bolt in. no need for any valvetrain upgrades (i assume you mean rocker arms or valves) as for solid lifters, RB26 already have solid lifters so no need to upgrade that. stronger valve springs would be a good choice though if you are running a lot of high rpm, and high lift/long duration cams, particularly those with a different base circle/high ramp rate.

I'm assuming you mean replace shims to re-set the valve clearances? if so, then yes you most likely will. it's just a case of install, measure, replace shims as needed to get the required valve clearances. if you meant shim the head as in space it or something, then no. head modification is not needed.

Realistically, any cam change will reqiure the shims to be at least checked, most likely replaced, as no two cams are exactly the same, and valve recession will have occured since they were last set, going slightly longer in the duration whilst maintaining under 10.2(i think)mm lift, gets around the need to upgrade springs, and modify the head. AFAIK, the stock cams are 240 deg, and i have heard of up to 310deg cams being used in drag cars. i believe the theory of using a bigger ex cam is that in a turbo car, the inlet is pressurised, and the smaller car increases cylinder filling, whilst the restrictive head/turbo exhaust side)compared to a n/a car) can use the additional scavenging time without adversely affecting the drivability, but i could be talking out my arse. What sort of driving do you intend to do? Whaw sort of hp are you after? There are plenty of GTR's that make 350rwkw with standard cams.

The car will become a weekend car soon. So some drags(tell i get kicked) and track days i guess. Would also like to be able to increase limiter too 8500rpm.

Power wise i guess 350-370 with 2530s if i change to T04Z later 420-450kws.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...