Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got my new fully forged bottom end running yesterday and the car sounds like it has a supercharger on it and you can hear this really high pitched whine comming from the engine.

The engine runs fine appart from running around 10 - 15deg higher then normal.

Anyone got anyideas why it would make the sound and why would it run hotter? the gauge in the dash reads normal readings its just the PFC that is saying it sitting on 101deg/c

If you have done a new timming belt it could be that, mine did the same and it turns out it was to tight and we just backed it of a little and the noise went away, and some belts are noiser than others.

Yep. Gates NEO

I haven't personally used a gates belt, but they have a bit of a rep for being quite noisy. I have heard a few cars with them, and yes they were noisy. It's quite possible though that it is just not being tensioned properly. were the tensioner and idler bearings replaced or checked?

get a long screw driver and carefully put it on the water pump housing, or the alternator or the powersteer pump, with your ear on the other end, if they all sound normal then your belt or tensioners may be noisy

cheers

Jeremy

gates timing belts are crap. Do not use them...

I installed one with the new idler/tensioner bearing's.

after about a week i had this really weird noise at idle coming from the front end.

after 6 months it was getting really annoying so i

did the screw driver trick, and the most noise was coming from the cas.

chucked a spare cas on and no change, so i removed the timing cover and instead of the blue gates belt i found a black gates belt. i was puzzled by this so i stripped the balancer, lower cover, etc off and found all the blue crap from the belt was now coating my new idler and tensioner pulley.

the coating that they put on the outside of there belts is useless.

removed both pulleys and hit them with the wire wheel on the cordless, and came up good as new.

replaced with a genuine nissan belt and havent heard a single noise since.

So the moral of the story is,

stick with genuine.

Cheers

i use a gates belt on my car, never once has been noisey. prob overtensioned as the others have said. p.s the blue does flake off my i doubt that was the noice, id say you overtensioned your belt also causing the belt to overstretch and strip the blue *gates* off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...