Front Mount Intercooler Into R30

[rsx84]

here are some pics of how i had the cooler set up before...

the "engine" pic is small but shows where the piping is in the engine bay

2nd pic, the core is black but you can see the core and where it sits...

[0R10N]

Yeah, relocating the overflow bottle and running the piping through the space there seems to be the most logical method of choice.

Here's how it's been done on my DR30 sedan - it's an off-the-shelf 1980s GReddy setup, long since out of production but the cooler's a nice healthy size. Only downside is the central radiator support panel has been removed to fit it all, which makes the front valance less stable.

And here's what it looks like with the bonnet shut. Very stealth - you wouldn't even notice it was there unless you looked closely

[Ghostrider]

Yeah, relocating the overflow bottle and running the piping through the space there seems to be the most logical method of choice.

Here's how it's been done on my DR30 sedan - it's an off-the-shelf 1980s GReddy setup, long since out of production but the cooler's a nice healthy size. Only downside is the central radiator support panel has been removed to fit it all, which makes the front valance less stable.

And here's what it looks like with the bonnet shut. Very stealth - you wouldn't even notice it was there unless you looked closely

Yeah! I reckon that's the go. If you look at the pic I left on #8 it's a modified version of that GReddy set up you have. With a little luck I'm going to have enough room to get past the air cond filter and have enough space on the end for a small oil cooler.

I am looking into solid mounting the pipes going through the radiator support panel and joining onto them each side.

The best part of this setup and an L series is the TB is out in front and needs just a very short pipe past the radiator.

Cheers, D

[Boof]

Go and have a look at www.pbase.com/stnzaboy/dr30 select all and go right down the bottom of the page, and there's photo's of my cooler install there!!

[Matty T]

Here's a few pics of my intercooler install. This is a bog-stock normally aspirated FJ20 with the factory T3 hung off it and 10 psi of boost. Intercooler is a bit of overkill, but being for a rally car, I am only able to use the factory micro-cooler, or the "Group A" unit. Supersize me!

[stagefumer11]

Here's a few pics of my intercooler install. This is a bog-stock normally aspirated FJ20 with the factory T3 hung off it and 10 psi of boost. Intercooler is a bit of overkill, but being for a rally car, I am only able to use the factory micro-cooler, or the "Group A" unit. Supersize me!

Very nice install. Nicly hidden. Ah higher compression Fj's so strong and love to boost.

Where did you run the piping, ? Up thru the aitbox tray and battery tray ?

[Matty T]

Where did you run the piping, ? Up thru the aitbox tray and battery tray ?

Have a look at the last photo - see the blue pipe in the headlight? Part of the "Production Rally Car" regulations is that we are not allowed to cut or modify the radiator support panel in any way. Thus, I could only make use of original holes in the radiator support panel to plumb the 'cooler. Voila! The piping comes straight through the high beam part of the light and through the original headlight access.

The car remains road-legal as it still has functioning high and low beams (albeit the crappy outside ones). Loss of a light doesn't really concern me as for night stages, I have a detachable light bar with 4 Cibie driving lights that hang off the front.

[the big JC]

Have a look at the last photo - see the blue pipe in the headlight? Part of the "Production Rally Car" regulations is that we are not allowed to cut or modify the radiator support panel in any way. Thus, I could only make use of original holes in the radiator support panel to plumb the 'cooler. Voila! The piping comes straight through the high beam part of the light and through the original headlight access.

The car remains road-legal as it still has functioning high and low beams (albeit the crappy outside ones). Loss of a light doesn't really concern me as for night stages, I have a detachable light bar with 4 Cibie driving lights that hang off the front.

dude thats one of the best idears ive ever seen nice work

[Ghostrider]

dude thats one of the best idears ive ever seen nice work

If for a competition car with governing rules and allowances for driving lights it's a good install, but JC, you have an L Series that has both compressor out & throttle body in on the same side (left) and a virtual regular street car that needs all the lights it's got.

Wouldn't you be best looking at a similar install to either OR1ON's or the small one I posted a pic of.

I have an HKS FJ20 Drag Intercooler, it's relatively small, but flows about 600HP and that's far more than I'm going to have a need for. I need to modify the plumbing to make it fit an L Series, but that's not an impossible task.

Cheers, D

[the big JC]

If for a competition car with governing rules and allowances for driving lights it's a good install, but JC, you have an L Series that has both compressor out & throttle body in on the same side (left) and a virtual regular street car that needs all the lights it's got.

Wouldn't you be best looking at a similar install to either OR1ON's or the small one I posted a pic of.

I have an HKS FJ20 Drag Intercooler, it's relatively small, but flows about 600HP and that's far more than I'm going to have a need for. I need to modify the plumbing to make it fit an L Series, but that's not an impossible task.

Cheers, D

yea im not looking at doing it like that i just think its a good idear my setup will be completly diferent to that i get my intercooler thismorning

Edited January 26, 2007 by the big JC

[stagefumer11]

Have a look at the last photo - see the blue pipe in the headlight? Part of the "Production Rally Car" regulations is that we are not allowed to cut or modify the radiator support panel in any way. Thus, I could only make use of original holes in the radiator support panel to plumb the 'cooler. Voila! The piping comes straight through the high beam part of the light and through the original headlight access.

The car remains road-legal as it still has functioning high and low beams (albeit the crappy outside ones). Loss of a light doesn't really concern me as for night stages, I have a detachable light bar with 4 Cibie driving lights that hang off the front.

oops sorry, that pic didnt show in time

[Matty T]

Don't be sorry. It's all good.

[DOR130]

this my cooler setup on my car, its an aus spec mr30 that i just put an fj20 into. it is not all completely finished but almost there just needs abit of tidying up.

[Ghostrider]

this my cooler setup on my car, its an aus spec mr30 that i just put an fj20 into. it is not all completely finished but almost there just needs abit of tidying up.

Sorry! but I think that looks POXY!

Tells every man and his dog what you've got.

Nothing sleeper, or stealth about that, but with a black bonnet as well I guess that says it all.

D

[rsx84]

this my cooler setup on my car, its an aus spec mr30 that i just put an fj20 into. it is not all completely finished but almost there just needs abit of tidying up.

its the piping that stands out more to me, if anything i'd just paint that black..... M2c.....

nice core size though not over kill like mine..

[Ghostrider]

its the piping that stands out more to me, if anything i'd just paint that black..... M2c.....

nice core size though not over kill like mine..

But the front valance stone guard panel has gone too, between the front guards. That's what makes it obvious. The DR Iron Mask spoiler like yours, would have been a better option, it sits marginally lower and would probably cover most if not all the piping.

Cheers, D

[DOR130]

But the front valance stone guard panel has gone too, between the front guards. That's what makes it obvious. The DR Iron Mask spoiler like yours, would have been a better option, it sits marginally lower and would probably cover most if not all the piping.

Cheers, D

yes as i said it is not completely finished yet, the stone tray under the bumper is going back on and will cover most of it,its just a photo of how the piping is set up, i never intended it to look like a sleeper or stealth.

[dr phil]

This is a picture of my setup, 450x300x76, with all 2.5" alloy piping. This was before i got the pipes welded up. The driver side pipe goes through an extra hole cut in the radiator support, and sneaks under the headlight and around the radiator. I like the fact that the piping is relatively short.

[rsx84]

This is a picture of my setup, 450x300x76, with all 2.5" alloy piping. This was before i got the pipes welded up. The driver side pipe goes through an extra hole cut in the radiator support, and sneaks under the headlight and around the radiator. I like the fact that the piping is relatively short.

this is how a mate of mines r31 is (600x 300x 75 core) and this is how i will be re-doing mine very soon.. short an simple....

Edited February 2, 2007 by rsx84

[Ghostrider]

There is something that most are overlooking and that is AIR FLOW!

Don't all jump on me for this but it's something I'm researching at the moment.

As air is cooled it needs a larger space to be able to flow at the same speed/rate. It comes out of the compressor in a relatively small diameter (VG30 is 44mm) into say (common) 50/60mm piping to the intercooler, as it is cooled the air expands and therefore needs a larger diameter on the outlet to keep the same air speed.

Has anyone taken this into account when plumbing their intercooler???

It would be my conclusion (researching) that about 50 in and 60 out of the cooler would be a good combination, particularly when using a 60mm throttle body, but I see so many intercoolers with about 75mm inlet & outlets.

Cheers, D