Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having watched one too many BMI videos and knowing most of the tuned Z33s are still in NA form, I've heard numerous internet gurus saying how unresponsive the VQ engines are to turbos. This brings me to question Nissan as to how they manage to extract 380kw out of the VQ engine for the new GTR. I mean, would an extra 0.3L of displacement and twin turbo be enough to extra 180kw out of the engine? or have they completely redesigned the engine? I know that some have tried to turbo a Z33 engine but only managed a small gain in power.

Not entirely true. Where did you hear it from?

For starters, the GT500 cars run VQ30DETTs, and they do OK so there's no issue with the block itself.

The VQ35DE's biggest problem is its softer-than-shit bottom end. It'll only reliably make around 300rwkW - push it harder and you'll eventually snap a rod. Of course, since the engines only exist in NA guise the OEM fuel system needs to be replaced too, but that's to be expected.

That said, if you keep it under 300rwkW the VQ is fine. The standard APS TT uses a pair of GT2871R's blowing 7psi to make around 280rwkW, which isn't too shabby considering its practically lag free. To put it in perspective, a stock 350Z will make around 155rwkW.

I know a couple of daily driven TT 350Z's with unopened engines, and they've had no dramas. The only one I'm aware of that's blown up was one that had been boosted to 320rwkW.

As for what the VQ will handle if you do build it up, how about a "streetable" 550rwkW?

As for what the VQ will do if you go all out and forget street use, apparently this drag 350Z runs a VQ block, and makes 1800hp (from sources not in the comments field of that YouTube page).

The estimates I've seen in car magazines is that they think the GT-R will have around 330kW - which given what an aftermarket TT kit will do the engine is way too low in my opinion. You'd think with the extra displacement, FI bottom end, and all that R&D they would squeeze out 400kW+.

Edited by scathing
The estimates I've seen in car magazines is that they think the GT-R will have around 330kW - which given what an aftermarket TT kit will do the engine is way too low in my opinion. You'd think with the extra displacement, FI bottom end, and all that R&D they would squeeze out 400kW+.

Even if they dont, someone else will make the kit aftermarket

even so is it CONFIRMED that its actually a VQ in the new gtr

or some steroid fed hybrid? or some completely new engine?

just cause its a 3.8L V6 doesnt mean its a bored out VQ

actually speaking of which...Has any indepth specs been released on the new GTR??

are there any pics of the interior yet??

RellikZephyr

Quote

"Even if they dont, someone else will make the kit aftermarket"

I think nissan needs to come out with 400kw+ to stop so many people out there commenting on how overrated gtr's are. I don't think Nissan will though I believe they should.

also by the time it hits the market, 330 to 370kw won't be in the ball park of the latest euro super cars, including m5, 911 turbo etc. These cars have been making this power for some time and will continue to produce more and more power.

By then they will producing this in the locally made HSV's so will have to continue to take the bogan abuse.

Unless they can make it a nible handler or come out with something amazing, I imagine it will fail to impress. If they could produce twice the power of a 350z with similar balance of a 350z plus 4wd, that will impress.

I'm hoping for the best though have a suspision I will be disappointed.

Just my thoughts.

Quote

"Even if they dont, someone else will make the kit aftermarket"

I think nissan needs to come out with 400kw+ to stop so many people out there commenting on how overrated gtr's are. I don't think Nissan will though I believe they should.

also by the time it hits the market, 330 to 370kw won't be in the ball park of the latest euro super cars, including m5, 911 turbo etc. These cars have been making this power for some time and will continue to produce more and more power.

By then they will producing this in the locally made HSV's so will have to continue to take the bogan abuse.

Unless they can make it a nible handler or come out with something amazing, I imagine it will fail to impress. If they could produce twice the power of a 350z with similar balance of a 350z plus 4wd, that will impress.

I'm hoping for the best though have a suspision I will be disappointed.

Just my thoughts.

VERY valid points :)

One more ill throw into the mix: If the new one comes with 330kw or 370kw, even a lot of the R32, R33 and R34's out there currently will be faster (well, by faster i mean have more power) - and thats before the German cars even get a look in :)

it won't be a VQ.. it'll be a VQxxVH :/ lots of changes have been made to improve the VQ.. a lot of them to allow higher revs and no doubt support a powerful turbo setup. 350kw in stock form is my guess.. With the scope for a few nismo tuner models pushing out 450kw, etc..

Having watched one too many BMI videos and knowing most of the tuned Z33s are still in NA form, I've heard numerous internet gurus saying how unresponsive the VQ engines are to turbos. This brings me to question Nissan as to how they manage to extract 380kw out of the VQ engine for the new GTR. I mean, would an extra 0.3L of displacement and twin turbo be enough to extra 180kw out of the engine? or have they completely redesigned the engine? I know that some have tried to turbo a Z33 engine but only managed a small gain in power.

Think there are some people out there who might disagree the this.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=159347

And I think this is not the VQ35HR which apparently has a stronger bottom end.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

The mods are dropping down in price as the cars become more common, and tuners get behind the engine.

When I got my Z33, it was pretty much the first time that engine had appeared in a sports car. There was nothing on the market for it internationally, and what was there cost an arm and a leg.

To put it in perspective, buying a HiTech / APS catback cost just under $2000 back then. A Fujitsubo SS was around $2700. And these were practically the only two on the market (aside from some US-made ones which would also have cost around AUD$2K landed), aside from titanium exhausts which were around $4000. JDM and US extractors were about AUD$1500 landed.

These days I can get a Buddy Club catback for $1600 and JDM extractors for around $1000 (or UAS ones for $600).

Munna - do you run that site? Do you have any data on the existance of a PowerFC for the VQ35DE? So far the only bespoke engine management systems I've found are the Unichip, TurboXS UTEC, HKS FConPro V and some American ones.

Munna - do you run that site? Do you have any data on the existance of a PowerFC for the VQ35DE? So far the only bespoke engine management systems I've found are the Unichip, TurboXS UTEC, HKS FConPro V and some American ones.

Yes, and my apology's as I am not sure of the existance of a power FC for a VQ ill have to edit that page.

cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

Its not like Nissan would've grabbed some VQ35DEs chucked on some turbos aftermarket style and bored them out. The engineers would've completly redesigned the engine, its been spotted all over the US driving around while engineers log info on the engine and improve it. They test it for reliability buy literally sitting them on the rev limiter until they blow, seeing what failed first and upgrading it.

The main point is will it be better than the RB26? and stock it will almost put out twice the power

As a bit of a RB vs VQ example, you could compare the Stagea S2/R34 engine RB25DET (neo) with the Stagea S3 engine VQ25DET.

The RB25DET (neo) puts out 206kw and has 333N-m of torque (343 in the R34 skyline i think).

The VQ25DET puts out 206kw (could be more?) and has 400N-m of torque. Thats quite a jump.

There are a number of differences, the major one being completely different engine design, with the VQ being a V6 as opposed to the RB which is a straight 6.

This is the only current factory turbo'd VQ engine I'm aware of. I'd say its definitely possible to turbo a VQ engine and with good results, but like others mentioned there are few aftermarket options for it.

I'm looking forward to the official power figures of the new GTR and I also wonder if the performance potential will be as great as with the current line-up of GTRs. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...