Jump to content
SAU Community

ECU  

135 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

i just got a quote for a haltec E11v2 for the car from in tune performance. anybody got any guff on these. quoted around 2700 fitted and tuned. removes air flow meter and o2 sensor. was told this is the best plug in ecu

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Due to a lack of research on my behalf i am running a microtech on my rb26. the car seems to drive smoothly enough but fuel consumption is rediculous. i get max 280 km out of a tank and even if a i really baby it it doesnt seem to make any difference.

rotomotion tuned it to 320rwhp with the only mods being the usual exhaust, pods, FMIC, walbro pump. 12 psi.

At this stage i would not recommend the microtech to anyone because everyone seem to get better fuel consumption than me with similar or more power. I am hoping another tuning attempt wil fix the problem. The rear bar collects a fair bit of blackness. Weather that is due to not having a cat or running too rich i dont know.

If anyone is running microtech and can get more than 300km out of a tank i would like to know about it.

theres no closed loop function on the microtech so fuel economy is crap

its a very well known issue

Ok so basically its live with crap fuel economy or change ecu. I guess that takes the microtech out of the race then because i dont know of any advantages it has over other models to compensate for its fuel economy?

Ok so basically its live with crap fuel economy or change ecu. I guess that takes the microtech out of the race then because i dont know of any advantages it has over other models to compensate for its fuel economy?

there were some threads about turning off closed loop on the power fc and editing the cells around the cruising points directly to improve economy even over closed loop operation but i didnt read in much detail

have a search in the forced induction section

For my money on my RB26DETT PFC all the way.

I do not want to pay for a whole heap of Wank features I (& about 80% of other ECU buyers!) am never going to need or use.

I dont care who has ran what ET on what ECU.

I have ran about 5 tuneable ECUs over the past 13years, the PFC is cheap, popular and flexible and is the only one I find it hard / impossible to tell I actually have an aftermarket ECU Fitted, which is what its all about really :D

The Wolf is getting me 500 to a tank - stock 20, 25 turbo, turbo back exhaust. Got 600 cruising to Busselton and back. If you put your foot into it tho it drinks a bit but regular driving if I come in much under 500 I would be scratching my head.

The Wolf is getting me 500 to a tank - stock 20, 25 turbo, turbo back exhaust. Got 600 cruising to Busselton and back. If you put your foot into it tho it drinks a bit but regular driving if I come in much under 500 I would be scratching my head.

Bayley,

The reason your getting such good fuel economy is cause your car is running too lean. Your AFR's are dangerously lean for a turbo car, and can lead to pinging. I'd suggest you get a retune soon, cause while you may save of fuel you'll be up for a new engine.

Cheers

Paul

I got 450+km with my old R32 GTR , power FC (airflow meters) group A turbos, Tomei 260 cams (lumpy idle too) making the better part of 300rwkw and a half dead engine.

BUT. Who gives a fig! If you have a performance car you are going to use lots of fuel or you simply aren't enjoying it!

Want ecconomy? Buy a mo-ped.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 😃  
    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
    • As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.
    • First time visitor and currently getting ready to start work on my HK Premier.  Its all stock, 186 with 3 on the tree.  The only mod i have right now is extractors.  I am hoping to get some guidance on slightly modifying the engine to bring a little more power. Just going for a nice, comfortable cruiser.  The car is very straight, however i have been out of the country for 20 years and its been gathering dust at a family farm.  Will be doing quite a bit of body work to cut out some small rust areas (frnt quarter panels and a few other small bits) and fix up the paint.  Will be redoing the interior (its currently black and the seats are in real need of recovering and respringing the driver side (its front bench seat).  The dash needs a little TLC, but no real damage.  As my heater has degraded I am considering fitting something after-market that will be both heater/AC (recommendations here are always welcome). Wanting something discrete that will allow me to use the same controls and not be obvious once inside the car.   For the engine, i have been told i could consider upgrading my cam (imagine i would need a new head as well) and putting a new carby (currently the original stromberg).  However not sure what is going to be the best route.  Would certainly welcome any comments/suggestions.  As  a final step I am looking at changing the wheels. Current hubcaps are in dire need of refurbishment or replacement (imagine its a bit like hens teeth).  Thinking of some clean/classic looking mags (7-inch should be more than enough - not going for a large change in look).  Welcome any comments/advice and of course any questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...