Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

who here has the 80G and 80AU?

what is the difference?

what is ultra sonic?

what would you guys reccomend?

thanks

Personally I prefer Autowatch 446 Premier with built in turbo timer.

As for ultra sonics these are usually a 2 piece system mounted on either side of the dashboard, 1 of them is a transmitter the other is a reciever and an ultra sonic beam (high frequency sound wave) is transmitted from i to the other, if the beam is broken by an object such as an arm the alarm is triggered. If I had to choose I would pick ultra sonics instead of microwave sensor but definately a shock sensor is needed if you want to save your wheels!

Goodbye :rant:

Ditto for the M80S...

Ultrasonics are a pain in the ar5e if u ask me... constantly false alarming to the point that you have turned the sensor down and might as well not have it at all......

  • 2 weeks later...
Ditto for the M80S...

Ultrasonics are a pain in the ar5e if u ask me... constantly false alarming to the point that you have turned the sensor down and might as well not have it at all......

hmmm, the m80s comes with shock sensors, ultrasonic sensors r optional. Ive got a m80g, same as m80s but with glass break sensor. I get false alarms also. You sure its not the shcok sensors that r causing it?

hmmm, the m80s comes with shock sensors, ultrasonic sensors r optional. Ive got a m80g, same as m80s but with glass break sensor. I get false alarms also. You sure its not the shcok sensors that r causing it?

glass break is set a tad too high. common problem I have with them after I set them to my liking.

glass break is set a tad too high. common problem I have with them after I set them to my liking.

hey, audio express from caa right?

Were abouts is the control for the glass break sensor? On the module?

I think all Mongoose m80 series come with 2 stage shock sensor as standard.

I had the m80AU fitted about 3 weeks ago.

Couldnt be happier.

ultrasonic are high frequency waves being sent around the inside of the car. If something gets in the way of the bouncing signals they set off the alarm.

Basically, if you have the window down and you stick your hand through the alarm will go off.

Reason I chose:

If car has tinted window's and window is popped out, glass break sensor may not hear.

Sensitivity:

I think it is perfect. A lot of people say its too sensitive but majority dont even have the system..Not once have I had a false trigger from the sensors.

I also had window sunshade stuck on window, one side detached and didnt trigger the alarm.

I paid an extra $40 when compared to glass break sensor and I guess its worth it for such a low price difference.

I was planning on getting microwave sensor but the alarm person talked me out of it, not sure why, thought it would be better having a chirp if someone looks through window. I think it may cause too many false triggers if people walk past etc..

yup... i am getting the M80AU installed on saturday by the guys at Platinum PPI. Gave me a very good deal so i will let you all know how it goes.

http://www.platinumppi.com/accessories.html

take a shot under the dash when you are done and I'll see if I can find the unit :no:

take a shot under the dash when you are done and I'll see if I can find the unit :no:

I had a look at my Girlfriends Celica on the weekend, her shock sensor was set way too high. Pulled down the main panel under the steering wheel, and there was the black box, nice and easy to adjust, way too easy!

Would a good place to hide an alarm module be on the passenger side, up underneath the dash as far up as possible? Or does it not matter, because you can look around for additional wires and follow them back?

I had a look at my Girlfriends Celica on the weekend, her shock sensor was set way too high. Pulled down the main panel under the steering wheel, and there was the black box, nice and easy to adjust, way too easy!

Would a good place to hide an alarm module be on the passenger side, up underneath the dash as far up as possible? Or does it not matter, because you can look around for additional wires and follow them back?

Chris, what's your recommendation for hiding it...?

not going into detail but right out of mind and out of sight.

worked on one today that I could have stole the car in less than 30 secs becuase it was such a sh1t job...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...