Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

who here has the 80G and 80AU?

what is the difference?

what is ultra sonic?

what would you guys reccomend?

thanks

Personally I prefer Autowatch 446 Premier with built in turbo timer.

As for ultra sonics these are usually a 2 piece system mounted on either side of the dashboard, 1 of them is a transmitter the other is a reciever and an ultra sonic beam (high frequency sound wave) is transmitted from i to the other, if the beam is broken by an object such as an arm the alarm is triggered. If I had to choose I would pick ultra sonics instead of microwave sensor but definately a shock sensor is needed if you want to save your wheels!

Goodbye :rant:

Ditto for the M80S...

Ultrasonics are a pain in the ar5e if u ask me... constantly false alarming to the point that you have turned the sensor down and might as well not have it at all......

  • 2 weeks later...
Ditto for the M80S...

Ultrasonics are a pain in the ar5e if u ask me... constantly false alarming to the point that you have turned the sensor down and might as well not have it at all......

hmmm, the m80s comes with shock sensors, ultrasonic sensors r optional. Ive got a m80g, same as m80s but with glass break sensor. I get false alarms also. You sure its not the shcok sensors that r causing it?

hmmm, the m80s comes with shock sensors, ultrasonic sensors r optional. Ive got a m80g, same as m80s but with glass break sensor. I get false alarms also. You sure its not the shcok sensors that r causing it?

glass break is set a tad too high. common problem I have with them after I set them to my liking.

glass break is set a tad too high. common problem I have with them after I set them to my liking.

hey, audio express from caa right?

Were abouts is the control for the glass break sensor? On the module?

I think all Mongoose m80 series come with 2 stage shock sensor as standard.

I had the m80AU fitted about 3 weeks ago.

Couldnt be happier.

ultrasonic are high frequency waves being sent around the inside of the car. If something gets in the way of the bouncing signals they set off the alarm.

Basically, if you have the window down and you stick your hand through the alarm will go off.

Reason I chose:

If car has tinted window's and window is popped out, glass break sensor may not hear.

Sensitivity:

I think it is perfect. A lot of people say its too sensitive but majority dont even have the system..Not once have I had a false trigger from the sensors.

I also had window sunshade stuck on window, one side detached and didnt trigger the alarm.

I paid an extra $40 when compared to glass break sensor and I guess its worth it for such a low price difference.

I was planning on getting microwave sensor but the alarm person talked me out of it, not sure why, thought it would be better having a chirp if someone looks through window. I think it may cause too many false triggers if people walk past etc..

yup... i am getting the M80AU installed on saturday by the guys at Platinum PPI. Gave me a very good deal so i will let you all know how it goes.

http://www.platinumppi.com/accessories.html

take a shot under the dash when you are done and I'll see if I can find the unit :no:

take a shot under the dash when you are done and I'll see if I can find the unit :no:

I had a look at my Girlfriends Celica on the weekend, her shock sensor was set way too high. Pulled down the main panel under the steering wheel, and there was the black box, nice and easy to adjust, way too easy!

Would a good place to hide an alarm module be on the passenger side, up underneath the dash as far up as possible? Or does it not matter, because you can look around for additional wires and follow them back?

I had a look at my Girlfriends Celica on the weekend, her shock sensor was set way too high. Pulled down the main panel under the steering wheel, and there was the black box, nice and easy to adjust, way too easy!

Would a good place to hide an alarm module be on the passenger side, up underneath the dash as far up as possible? Or does it not matter, because you can look around for additional wires and follow them back?

Chris, what's your recommendation for hiding it...?

not going into detail but right out of mind and out of sight.

worked on one today that I could have stole the car in less than 30 secs becuase it was such a sh1t job...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...