Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I am putting an RB25 turbo on my RB20 in the next few days, I just wanted to know where I should put the nipple for the wastegate hose.

Should I put it on the compressor housing? Or on the intercooler piping? Do I get it as close to the compressor housing as possible or doesn't it really matter?

Does it matter how long that hose is? I have a mechanical boost controller, I was thinking I might mount in a different spot, but it would mean that the line would be about 2 foot long at a guess.

AI spose I will find out when I get the turbo off, but where does the standard RB20 one connect to? Obviously I have read that I will need to add a nipple in, I am just curious how the RB20 one works then.

Much appreciated :wave:

Chris

Edited by eXc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151646-rb25-turbo-nipple/
Share on other sites

as mentioned, tapping a hole in the comp cover works well.

you can also weld a nipple into the intercooler piping at a convenient location.

either options works fine depending on what tools/equipment you have.

the length of the vacuum line does have an effect, how much... depends.

the shorter the length the better but its not like going from the 150mm of the rb20 line to 600mm in your custom location will be overly noticeable.

i have heard rumours that some rb25 turbos require different fittings to allow the water lines to fit up to a rb20 but i have never come across any problems when fitting three different rb25 turbos to three different rb20s and two vg30 turbos to a rb25 and a rb20.

Edited by rb20inside

ok, I put it in the compressor housing.

I needed to change water lines. Predator - I have posted in your Tutorial thread on how to tell this, thought you may like to add it to your guide for future people? Basically if it's not a 24mm head on the water lines, you will need different ones (mine were 22mm)

Getting on dyno at 12:30 today to check everything out. The turbo is making a heat related smell. I am hoping it's just cause it's been sitting in this guys garage for 3 months or whatever.

Appreciate your help guys :)

Cheers

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...