Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want to go another ECU I think the Wolf3d v500 is a nice option. Its ~2k (plugin) + tuning.

Do remember the PowerFC is 1k BUT it doesn't have boost control, the wolf does.

Mildren Race Engineering are the SA mob to see for the Wolf.

The Wolf3d V500 is everything I would want in an ECU.

Sequential Injection

6 Coil drivers

Closed Loop o2

Boost control

VCT control

High/fine resolution load/rpm points

and the list goes on.....

http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My uncles a systems designing microelectronic engineer who has worked on a few drag cars, I will ask him what is the best application for street driving modifications and I shall get back to you... that wold3d looks freakin sweet tho... but as you know you can buy a plugin for power fc for boost (AVCR plugin)

My uncles a systems designing microelectronic engineer who has worked on a few drag cars, I will ask him what is the best application for street driving modifications and I shall get back to you... that wold3d looks freakin sweet tho... but as you know you can buy a plugin for power fc for boost (AVCR plugin)

Yep that is what I was getting at. By the time you add the rather featureless uncustomizable PowerFC Boost kit for ~$400that brings the price up to $1400 odd. You then need a Z32 or Q45 AFM thats another few hundred.

Is it worth the extra $300-$600 for the Wolf3D. If I had the cash at the time I would say yes, purely for the multiple map ability and datalogging should you want to hit Mallala. :)

As the Wolf can run MAP pick up a stuffed AFM for next to nothing or use your own and knock the guts out of it, leave it sitting in its origional position for when the mr. policeman pops your bonnet.

dont forget to add the cost of the hand controller to the wolf if you want to start adding boost controller kits to the cost of the fc

i think their about 4-500 ?

also tuners can be harder to find , for instance only 1 WA i think

but feature set looks good and the software looks very nice

Edited by arkon

The best ECU option for anyone's car is the one their tuner is most familiar with. Period. It's more about 'the tune' than it is 'what's being tuned'.

Out of interest, Apex got their GTR to run 8's with an AFM'd PFC.

Adrian

Thats exactly it Adrian.

I have no doubts about Mildren Race Engineerings tuning ability to top it off they are top blokes.

http://www.mildrens.com.au/

Last time I was around there they had an interesting dead stock looking VS v6 commodore pushing out 320rwkw through a pair of turbo's on 12psi. It had P plates stuck on it. :)

Shaun on the other hand.. He just has that nack where he can tune almost anything. :yes: BUT I know what he will recommend Paul. The PowerFC.

The Djetro PFC?

My uncle just emailed me back, hes got 1-2 spare EMU sitting at his work which he personally designed for a ca18 dragger. hes gonna let me try it out when i get my turbo. I will post up pics of it when i get to try it out.

Being off a 4cyl it may not be suitable.

The RB's are notorious for killing coils when they are run in batch mode. You NEED 6 coil drivers.

Djetro.. yer but the bang for buck is lost.

Every ECU has its place in the market.

Paul.. The other thing with the Wolf... Drop a cheap couple hundred auto in to it with a manual shift kit and run that quick 1/4. Then claim that high 10sec 1/4 with only 400rwhp not 500odd. >_<

yeh u told me that i think in one of ur pms, i always knew that a properly configured auto box via suitable ecu will perfect change everytime, no proper drag cars are manual... I dont want to lose "the fun" tho, so im stickin with manual.

my uncle said its reprogrammable and can drive 6 coil drivers. need a cheap laptop to configure it and thats it. hes givin it to me and tuning for me on the deal that i design a new website for him so thats ok by me.

my uncle said its reprogrammable and can drive 6 coil drivers. need a cheap laptop to configure it and thats it. hes givin it to me and tuning for me on the deal that i design a new website for him so thats ok by me.

Not 100% sure if you meant it has 6 coil drivers or it is able to drive 6 coils *in batch mode*

Question him if it has 6 coil drivers..

Being able to drive 6 coils is irrelevant as almost all ecu's are able to do so, in BATCH mode.

Don't use batch mode coil drivers on the RB's or your asking for trouble.

If you need the coil dwell times etc drop me a PM.

Im looking around for an aftermarket ecu at the moment. PowerFC does look very nice and im tempted to try find one, but what competition is there: Im planning to build up a street car for occasional track use so it needs to be able to run all of the nice stuff the factory ECU runs + A bigger turbo + supporting mods and it has to be smooth and return good fuel economy. I know a lot is in the tune but im guessing a lot is also in how good the system is as well. What other options are there?

PowerFC is a good computer when you want minimum effort to get a decent tuneable ECU. I've heard patchy arguements that MAPs are better than AFMs - I've given answers to the AFM vs. MAP debate already SirRacer. I'm not going to join the arguement, but I vote the MAP sensor without hesitation.

ST mainly tunes PowerFCs, no wonder he's pro PowerFC.... if he can't tune other things, why would he tell you to go with others?

There are quite a few cases around the place of people getting over 500whp on stock internal RB25s, though at least a thicker head gasket is well recommended.

robin at torque dan. hes also a link dealer . you should know i cant understand soichi for the life of me :sleep:

people also say with a power fc the afm runs out of resolution. a q45 can go to a good 500rwkws from what ive been told :kiss:

Edited by SirRacer

The wolf is a sweet computer, the only real thing i can fault it on is the boost control, being that it isn't closed loop, it takes a while to get a good curve on the dyno, then on the road the boost changes as the ramp rate does, it may be fixed on the new ones though?

Might be a bit off the topic, but seeing as everyone is talking about ECU's...

I've currently got a Haltech E6K, one of about 4 prototypes made if I remember correctly. Anyway I've got a set of nismo 740cc installed and my car will run like shit when started cold for about 5-15 mins of driving.

I have been told by a few mechanics that it's the fact that my injecters are too big and the computer can't handle them. Also that it is "batch firing" 3 injecters at once.

My questions is, would upgrading to a new model Haltech fix my problem with a good tune?

so a good option for a street car doing 300+ rwkw is to buy a PFC and get the D-Jetro Super Suction Kit.

Its not a bad idea, but you really dont need a djetro at this power level, i would stick with an AFM for better drivability.

robin at torque dan. hes also a link dealer . you should know i cant understand soichi for the life of me :D

people also say with a power fc the afm runs out of resolution. a q45 can go to a good 500rwkws from what ive been told :w00t:

the stock afm will run out at decent power levels. for 300rwkw get a VG30 its sufficent for those poser levels and fits on quite easily as aposed ot the q45.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...