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the stock afm will run out at decent power levels. for 300rwkw get a VG30 its sufficent for those poser levels and fits on quite easily as aposed ot the q45.

They max out before 300rwkw though, but that doesn't mean you can't make more power; you simply tune it as one would a map based ecu.

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Have you tried playing with the cold start enrichment?

I haven't played with the computer at all, but the last guy that tuned it made it a bit better but it's still pretty bad. I've also been told that it wasn't getting enough voltage. I have sinced changed the alternator and it's now getting around 13.3V

Is this alright? Or should I be getting more??

I haven't played with the computer at all, but the last guy that tuned it made it a bit better but it's still pretty bad. I've also been told that it wasn't getting enough voltage. I have sinced changed the alternator and it's now getting around 13.3V

Is this alright? Or should I be getting more??

when the cars running should be on 13.8-14.2 volts

What can I do to fix this???

I had a friend who fitted a haltech to a sr20 silvia and it wouldn't idle either - it had 800cc or 850cc sards in it and in the end they ended up putting smaller injectors as no-one could get it to idle nicely. I'll ask him how it's going now.

Cheers

I used to get mixed reactions from the people at EFI Technology when they were at Tarren Point . They were not at all keen on propper sequential injector control because it needs good injectors (if they're big)and I think their computers (at the time) were running out of drivers to run six coils and six injectors individually . The prototype E10 and production E11 series got around this but I think they still don't support mass air load sensing . One day the aftermarket ECU producers will and when this happens EFI Tech may even discover atmospheric pressure at sea level is not zero and below this a "negative pressure" .

Anyhow back to your cold start problem , I'd have a look at your injection timing (if its sequential) and also cold start ignition timing . I found with my FJ20 that you can back off the cold steady state enrichmend fairly soon and virtually lose it by 40-45 deg coolant temp . A bit of extra acceleration injection compensation helps here to . If I get a chance later I'll arc up the lap top and see what I did with ignition timing in the cold start/run phase . What ever it was I got it to crank/start/run by just turning the key , that engine had no idle air motor just the cold start heated air bypass valve .

Cheers .

My choice of ECU...

Adaptronic.

Will be running mine very soon, and taken to Jason's for tuning.

It's Map sensor based, and at a RRP of $1000, very affordable.

Boost control, etc.

Runs basically everything.

Will see what mine makes once all tuned up, then be throwing on injectors, turbo, and fuel pump...

Stock engine, easily make 300RWKW reliably.

But remember, reliability is all in how you drive it also, Jason drove the doors off of his for 10 months straight. and then it went.

The only other type of car that would be driven that hard, would be something like a proper race car, IMO anyway.

Adaptronic is a great ecu, i used to work for the distributor, and fitted/tuned quite a few, IMO you cannot beat its value for money. Oh, it can also be hooked up to an air flow meter. Andy(the owner) just doesn't have to time to market them properly, he's so flat out building them.

Wow. That Adaptronic looks very interesting.

Looks like a pretty decent option for the price. Certainly tested on many vehicles with plenty of info. I like the amount of info you can find on their site.

Good choice for a skyline as it has six ignition drivers, where as most other brands like EMS and microtech, you have to pay extra for the ECU that will best run a 6cyl vehicle.

Don't think its cheap enough to compete on the 4cyl front tho, as 4cyl ECU's such as Microtech's LT10 can be had cheaper once u include loom and ignition module.

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