Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey got done for

-HICAS lock fitted to rear, to be returned to standard or engineer to address lock bar + rear wheel alignment.

this is going to cost about $1k at nisswreck for me to get the parts as apparently the power steering pump for it has been removed under the hood.

- COILOVERS fitted to be returned to standard or engineer to address.

when speaking with the engineer he just said as long as you cant wind them down past the legal height there ok.

-no EYELEVEL brake light

i thought 32's didn’t come with 1.

can you just put a stick on one to get your car through because im not to keen on modifying my car. It's pretty standard and I intend on keeping it that way. collectors item ;)

I’m thinking of going for an engineers report for the rest as suspension is going to be looking at over $500 and rear wheel steering no doubt close to $2k getting stuff put in n out again.

Anyone got engineers they recommend? I spoke to a Doug Potts or something like that he was saying like $1500 to get suspension n the HICAS engineered. Then all I have to do is get the coilovers changed so they don’t go below legal height (not that I really care because I like to get over speed humps without scratches and im not really going to be hitting the track)

Anyone got the details on what's the lowest R32 GTR's are allowed to be?

Edited by gzilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152568-engineers-report/
Share on other sites

The R32's came with a rear wing that has eyelevel brake light LED's built in.

Remove the rear wing and you need to fit a eyelevel light in the rear window.

Regarding the suspension height.. A mate recently got defected and I believe he said the GTR's had to be no lower than 372mm. Ring regency and check.

You have no choice -

return the hicas to working order.

fit a slimline eyelevel light

Buy/borrow std shock.

No engineers report will be worth the paper its on.

Fix any other obvious defect (like the no cat etc)

Take some KY as you would probably go through a 3rd time if u dont make it resemble a stock car...

Ps - GTR's are 375mm i think i saw in the cops book.

Goodluck buddy! Ive heard soo much crap about people telling me coilovers were legal through regency!...I didnt think they were unless they were welded to stock heght or above! Mines going through today for the 3rd time!

Make sure everything is smick! But i guess the main thing is..You got your list..So just fix everything on it...as they dont tend to check on other stuff other than the list the second time! (generally speaking)

Keep us informed

BB

also- jump to super cheap..they have rear eye level brake lights that connect to your cig lighter for 12$...save u a bit of cash :)

Edited by boostd_r32_gurl

for the record, all (i think) nissan turbo cars come with a bov - just the plumb back type. It'd be simple enough to fit a stock one when getting it checked and replace it afterwards.

If they ask does it have a bov you can say yes but its plumb back and factory standard. Nothing illegal about the factory bov. :glare:

Good luck with it all. :laugh:

James whats the deal with your car? is it being rebuilt as we speak?

I haven't seen you around in victor for months.

I've stopped going to the pub since since i'm no longer with kara. I don't really want to go down there anymore.

Gimmie a ring or something i've still got your number, we need to catch up.

James whats the deal with your car? is it being rebuilt as we speak?

I haven't seen you around in victor for months.

I've stopped going to the pub since since i'm no longer with kara. I don't really want to go down there anymore.

Gimmie a ring or something i've still got your number, we need to catch up.

sorry mate, think you got the wrong guy. My names not James :)

not that it matters but ill add my 2 cents, my wing is standard and there's no brake light in it. As far as i know there are no GTR's have brake lights in the wing but some GTS 32's have brake lights in there. Either way it’s easy enough to chuck one in the window and take it back out again.

they were looking around the rear steering rack when they noticed the hicas wasn’t working, so they might not know about the power steering lines. Havnt had a look myself yet how its been modified, I wouldn’t really have a clue what im looking at anyway.

I think they should be right with the engineer's report since they wrote it on the sheet (i hear sometimes they don’t give you the engineer option and force you to make it stock again). Just trying to figure out which way would be the better was in terms of $$

i figure if i got defected again and had the engineer's report they would just pick on over stuff more to give me the yellow sticker, but the cars pretty standard so there's not too much they can winge about.

I don’t suppose anyone has a hicas to lend? or legit suspension? i can let you hold onto some cash or something so you can trust you'll get it straight back in the same condition i got it.

Im finding it hard to get someone to lend me GTR parts, i guess this stuff expensive, hard to find and im a newby could be contributing factors here. :)

cheers to all that took the time to respond, much respect

Edited by gzilla
  • 1 month later...

If you do get an engineers report , the engineer is taking responsibility for what ever he is writing the report for. Regency should not be able to defect you for anything that the report is covering. If they try , you should tell them to take it up with the engineer. This is the reason you get an engineers report for in the first place. The engineer is putting his reputation on the line and therefor , if he is anygood should argue like hell for you. This is why they cost so much.(accepting liability).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...