Jump to content
SAU Community

Insurance At Track Days

Modena

By Modena,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted
Actually,

they wont....

No company out there will, Shannons does for older cars, that actually do the historics and stuff.

Give em a call and find out.

Oh, hmm.. My policy says different. I dunno. I should call and double check.

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted
Shannon's only cover track days for older historic cars. Ring and ask, that's what I did and they said in no uncertain terms that there is no way they'd cover a skyline on a track day.

When I signed up to Shannons I asked about track coverage, and they offered it to me but it was about three times higher than my normal premium.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

Most insurance companies (these days) will cover you for advanced driver training courses, that may be run off-street. You have to have a driving instructor in the car with you to be eligible.

But if you're doing a practice session (let alone timed laps or racing for position) then you'll have to get specific track day insurance.....which will probably cost as much as the car. I don't think anyone covers those kinds of track sessions.

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted
I do believe that shannon's do.. or atleast they did cover track days for an excess price + a higher premium..

I'm with Shannons and I can tell you they do NOT cover you on the track for a normal track sprint. No one does. I believe they do cover you if you are on the track for a driver training course however - but not a normal track day.

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

I scanned in a couple of pages from my Shannons product disclosure agreement.

According to this they didn't use to allow you to have the "Racing Extension" on your policy if the vehicle was older than 60 years old. Which I guess means they didn't use to allow "track insurance" for historics...

shannonspda13aj.jpg

...and here's the bit about what is covered when you have "club racing" ticked on your insurance policy.

shannonspda5dn.jpg

Maybe things have changed??

post-10239-1169447710.jpg

post-10239-1169447734.jpg

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

Well, you can see right there. Hard to dispute the actual Shannons PDA.

I got that PDA last year. Maybe things have changed. I don't know. But anyway, there it is. According to that, they can cover you on the track, like I said in my very first post in this thread before all the naysayers decided to chime in.

And with regards to the age of the car and them only insuring "historics" on the track, according to that as long as the car is less than 60 years old they can cover it on the track.

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

The more I read forums the more I realise that there is so much misinformation everywhere.

The best thing for you to do CCCP is to call Shannons, ask them to send a product disclosure agreement. Read through it, then call back asking specifically about the club racing section (if it even exists anymore). Quote page numbers etc. That is the only way you're going to find out what the real deal is.

The guys on the phones are worked to the bone and have to deal with lots of "fully sick" people wanting to insure their "hectic" rides, and when someone just straight out asks for track insurance they're bound to tell you to bugger off.

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted
Wilch, do whatever you like :P

I will bet you $500 that you wont get track cover.

The PDs says it, but remember, it is in plain english.

It is saying for the people who have the older classics and the historics that "If" they have that option, it will say that in their policy schedule.

Also - everything as to be printed in there even if it doesnt apply to your specific cover.

But, hey, you dont want to listen to me, so call shannons and find out :laugh:

Better give me $500 then... :rollseyes:

meh, I really couldn't give a flying fu(k about this anymore. Seriously, CCCP do what you want. Call Shannons.

I'm out of this thread. Try and help someone and you just get people questioning everything you say. Really over this whole SAU forum.

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted
I scanned in a couple of pages from my Shannons product disclosure agreement...

Not picking you out but just for everyone else - what Wilch means is product disclosure statement and is not necessarily an agreement.

The PDS will just tell you about the insurance product you're buying, your actual contract will have the policy endorsements/exclusions/conditions ... in short just cos it's in the PDS booklet doesn't mean it's in your policy conditions :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...