Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now I'm half keen on a S2 Stagea as they have pretty much everything I want. Space, comfortable and reasonable performance.

My question is this, is it cheaper to import and comply/rego a car or buy a landed one. Further to this is there anything I should be wary of when importing a stagea?

I was hoping to spend well under 20K, actually as close as possible to 15k is this achievable?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152904-importing-or-buying-already-landed/
Share on other sites

Oh boy this subject has been covered so many times, (and I've only been a member for about 4 months)!!

Importing will give you a better car at a cheaper price, but you have to have the dosh up front, (most of it) and be very patient, cos it takes 2 months to get a car here. There are many pit falls, but it can be rewarding. I'll tell you how rewarding next week when mine arrives. :) On the other side, buying one here will save you a lot of work. You can drive it first. (BIG plus). AND you can NEGOTIATE the price. Also you'll get it immediately. I would have gone down the "buy it here path", but I know that I still saved about $5000 - $10,000 importing myself.

If you want to import, PM me and I'll tell you more..... much more.

No, I am not a dealer.

Yes there is a lot to be wary of! But most of it can be overcome.

I dont really think its fair to say that you will get a better car for less.

For example, SEVS require you to have a pretty much stock Stagea for complaince, hence, it wont be "much better". Sure it will have some bolt on mods, but nothing more than whats for sale locally.

Additionally, there is nothing like talking to the seller, someone who actually knows the history. I guess in the end it comes down to the person that is selling their car.

For example, I will be putting my car up for sale as soon as I get my 200+awkw tune, just awaiting my DFA back from SK. To give you an idea of what 20k buys you locally, check out http://ebay.clearbridge.com.au/lachlan.html

Id say thats far better than any importable Stagea, specially with all the extra cash spent on it. And as I said before, you can talk to the seller and ask all the details (such as what ive listed with what oils i used, how regularly I service, what driving history of the car is etc etc etc)

I've imported two cars before, but chose to buy my Stagea locally. For me, it was more a case of "I want it now/need it now" and didnt want to wait. I now want an S13 pig to drift and thrash around, and for that purpose I am really considering importing as local sellers want too much, but for something that has to go SEVS's, I can honestly say there isnt much in it.

Thanks for the response and offer of guidance. Once I confirm what I want to do I will take you up on it. The wait will suit me honestly as if I decide to do it (get a car allowance through work and I'm just working out the numbers) I cant give me car back until after August this year.

After having a breeze through J-spec I saw this >> http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=8837 which although its km's are high it still seemed OK value.

I dont really think its fair to say that you will get a better car for less.

For example, SEVS require you to have a pretty much stock Stagea for complaince, hence, it wont be "much better". Sure it will have some bolt on mods, but nothing more than whats for sale locally.

Additionally, there is nothing like talking to the seller, someone who actually knows the history. I guess in the end it comes down to the person that is selling their car.

For example, I will be putting my car up for sale as soon as I get my 200+awkw tune, just awaiting my DFA back from SK. To give you an idea of what 20k buys you locally, check out http://ebay.clearbridge.com.au/lachlan.htm

Id say thats far better than any importable Stagea, specially with all the extra cash spent on it.

Linky no work :)

I updated my post and fixed the link, was missing the "l" at the end of html.

Also, a note with M35 Stageas. There is currently, to the best of my knowledge, nowhere to comply them in Australia. If you want to bring it in and give it to a shop as their test car for compliance, it will be free compliance but expect the process to take between 6 to 18 months.

My question is this, is it cheaper to import and comply/rego a car or buy a landed one. Further to this is there anything I should be wary of when importing a stagea?

Phew, you are about to discover how true the saying is "opinions are like arseh0les - everyone has one"

I asked this question once, and never again.

And no, I didn't import mine.

I have updated my site with photos. http://ebay.clearbridge.com.au/lachlan.html

I am not "selling" it right now as Ive not tuned it for over 200awkw, but once I do, I will put it on the market right away. Alternatively id cut 500 off the price and sell it with all the hardware. 160awkw is still fast enough for now, but I want to feel the power of 200awkw :)

As for some advice, here is an alright thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=92065

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80601

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=148428

I have updated my site with photos. http://ebay.clearbridge.com.au/lachlan.html

I am not "selling" it right now as Ive not tuned it for over 200awkw, but once I do, I will put it on the market right away. Alternatively id cut 500 off the price and sell it with all the hardware. 160awkw is still fast enough for now, but I want to feel the power of 200awkw :happy:

As for some advice, here is an alright thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=92065

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80601

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=148428

Thanks for your helpp mate, appreciate it. BTW I still cant see pics on your link, sorry.

You're all traitors... keep your stageas, sell a kidney or something.

yeah, I sold my kneecap in order to keep my Stagea

Bought mine up in Qld, was good to see it in the flesh and not have problems with compliance etc. Plus at that stage it was the cheapest in Australia, but IMO the best bargain (Dayz series 1 for 18k when stnd S1 were 20k plus, and S2 was 25k plus)

fly510, just click the link http://ebay.clearbridge.com.au/lachlan.html

It 100% has the photos, maybe it saved in your cache without. Open that page then press the "refresh" button next to the stop button. Alternatively, press F5.

yeah, I sold my kneecap in order to keep my Stagea

Bought mine up in Qld, was good to see it in the flesh and not have problems with compliance etc. Plus at that stage it was the cheapest in Australia, but IMO the best bargain (Dayz series 1 for 18k when stnd S1 were 20k plus, and S2 was 25k plus)

lol

Ahhh, but you see. I am selling my Stagea because I DO love it so much.

If I was to keep it and use it for what I want to....i would surely kill it. On the other hand, an A31/S13/R32 is not so worthy of care :)

Rest assured, the stagea will return to me later in life...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...