Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was a good day :-D very slippery first laps out and that wonderful comp lock up into T1 haha.

was good giving you a chase, would of chased a bit more but my car started playing up, think the diffs giving up on me lol.

yeah, next time. I was silly to go back out, brakes were not exsistant on the ride back! bloody hell those QFM pads are good tho, worked awesome down to the indicator! just orderd a new set + spare set.

yeah, next time. I was silly to go back out, brakes were not exsistant on the ride back! bloody hell those QFM pads are good tho, worked awesome down to the indicator! just orderd a new set + spare set.

yeah, my brake pedal is feeling a bit spongy now haha was good though, these simple EBC green pads have done 3 track days and 2 hillclimbs now, holding up well :-)

im quite surprised how well the R888's went!

spotted my 33 not ideling & seeming to fuel up at around 4500 5000 rpm doesn't do it all the time tho im thinking afm? maybe igniter? as it has almost new spitfire coils any ideas? running around 13psi

edit if i unplug afm idles fine as soon as i plug it in wont idle

Edited by Autumn_180

Check the AFM insidey bits where the bits actually solder onto the board, I've read it's a common problem for them to corrode and crack, the just need to be resoldered.

If you'd like a spare one to test I think I've got a spare one lying around because my R33 doesn't need one anymore.

Also my house mate is pretty handy with a soldering iron if does turn out your afm is broken.

How'd you go with your brake master cylinder problem?

brough a new working one fitted it but the pedal is still soft theres no air in the lines or anything the fronts work fine but its like theres no pressure getting to the rear brakes

That would be good i can grab the space saver on friday so if its ok we can test that at the same time?

yeah sure, send me a PM and tell me what time you want to come round.

Woah, I sold the space saver to an Autumn_180, not you Autumn33, imposter!

lol

Edited by zoidbergmerc

spotted my 33 not ideling & seeming to fuel up at around 4500 5000 rpm doesn't do it all the time tho im thinking afm? maybe igniter? as it has almost new spitfire coils any ideas? running around 13psi

edit if i unplug afm idles fine as soon as i plug it in wont idle

just a heads up. if you unplug the AFM the ECU will run in limp mode so it will idle and do everything normally. ive seen similar issues before but it doesnt nessasarly mean its AFM.

ill swap your 33 for my 4 door now if you want to. ;)

just a heads up. if you unplug the AFM the ECU will run in limp mode so it will idle and do everything normally. ive seen similar issues before but it doesnt nessasarly mean its AFM.

ill swap your 33 for my 4 door now if you want to. ;)

i found it will idle fine, but you try rev it and it will hunt and carry on like a spastic :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...