Jump to content
SAU Community

Rebuilding Rb26dett. Opinions Needed.


Sayajin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I am in the process of possibly getting ready to rebuild my RB26 in my GTR33. As I said in one of my previous threads, I have spun a bearing in it. I am trying to decide on a path and wanted to get some opinions from you guys. I figure if I am going to rebuild my engine then I might as well upgrade it at the same time to save costs in the future. I just want to make sure that I have everything as far as upgrade parts:

Cams

Pistons

Rods

Rod Bolts

Timing Belt

Oil Pump

Water Pump

Metal Gasket Kit

Head Studs

I am wondering if I need to get upgraded springs, retainers, valve guides, bearing cap studs, ect. I know the RB26 is rev happy by nature, and I dont know if I need to get these parts or anything additional. I know a lot of this is going to depend on my power goals for the future and what not. I dont have any extreme goals per say for the future, but I want to be ready in the event I choose too. Right now I am shooting for 600AWHP, however I am sure I will want more later.

Of course I am going to machine the engine and head and what not, as well as probably port and polish the head. I am mainly asking about parts that I need. Thanks a lot guys.

-Sayajin

Edited by Sayajin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

have a look at the oil control for rb's thread to see what size restrictors you'll need for the block if you're going for a n1 pump. might be why you spun a bearing in the first place too.

i rebuilt my motor with an n1 pump but didnt do the oil restrictor mod. im regretting it now but ill definately be doing it when i decide to swap to a metal head gasket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am going to go with either the Tomei, Apexi or JUN pump. I plan to do some road racing and I dont have enough faith in the N1. I will say however, my oil pressure and temperature are still perfect, even after the thrown bearing.

Do you still need the restrictors if you dont get the N1 pump?

-Sayajin

Edited by Sayajin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

sk recommends it on rb's you intend to race with. the only reason the n1 pump would be 'unreliable' is its a high volume pump which pumps out 20-25% more oil than standard. this causes oil starvation which spins bearings.

putting restrictors in will definatly ease my mind with the n1 pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks monga, I will look them up.

Nismoid, I dont really have a set budget. I am trying to do it as cost effectively as possible while making sure I do everything that NEEDS to be done. Of course if you do everything you can get up to $20K+. I am more asking about what is ESSENTIAL to do while it is apart for a good strong engine. Thanks.

-Sayajin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what exactly does 'spun a bearing' mean? Ive heard about it a lot and i know its very common with rb engines but what does it mean and what causes it?

Edited by Yawn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay.

Well I am considering just buying a new N1 shortblock and porting and polishing my old head. What do you guys think?

The N1 block already comes with forged internals including the crank shaft. Do you think that is a better option? or just go ahead and rebuild my old one?

-Sayajin

_________

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beleive it or not, I would also like to know this. I mean I know what a spun bearing is.. however I dont know what causes it. I think it is oil issues, however I am not sure. My thing is I want to locate the cause of the problem and fix that rather than just fixing the result.

The cause for spinning a bearing is when the crank touches the bearing because usually there is a thin film of oil keeping it from touching and if it does touch it will probably spin it.

-Sayajin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ithink a spun bearing can be coursed by more the then just oil issues,bigRPM, poor maintains. Think and also help with a spun bearing.

I saw a Tomei RB28 Kit for $6500 if i was rebuilding again thats something i be looking into Because my current engine cost me 1k new crank,1800 billet rods and 1400 pistons so that 4.2k may as well of brought the tomei or HKS step 1 kit for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep step1 HKS 2.8lt kits on nengun are about 6.7k, i saw the tomei kit for sale on Nissanslivias(import 101 was selling it). remember these kits are forged counter weight cranks not Billet or i would have grab that tomei on for a new engine. Wrxhoon and MIK could tell you more about what the tomei kit is like as i think they have used one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...