Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I'm looking at buying a Nissan gazelle and turning into a drift car, so i can learn to drift and gain more experience with modding cars before i am old enough to buy/drive a skyline.

I was wondering if there was any other sort of car that you would recommend for me to look at before i purchase a gazelle, that would make a good/cheap drift/project car.

Also, what engine would you recommend i put in it?

I chose the gazelle because i heard that ca18det/sr20det can just bolt straight in. (don’t really know much about engines tbh)

Heres one i am looking at there aren’t really many around :P

And about how much will it cost me to get it up and running as a drift car, not counting the exterior and interior work.

Keep in mind that i am:

17 years old

Wont be driving it around town, only on tracks

Have an income of about 160 a week

Going to put alot of time into it.

Also if you know anyone that is selling one tell me

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153849-gazelle-project-drift-car/
Share on other sites

you need to get one with indapendant rear suspension. part from thet they make great drift machines.

Also consider an R31 skyline, they do a really good job if they have a locked diff and hard suspension they put out about 100rwkw and its just enough to get them drifting.

Cheers.

Justjap have an immaculate factory turbo S12 in their lot right now that has to be seen to be believed. It has an original 120,000km on it or something but looks like its brand new.

Could i please have a link?

Also consider an R31 skyline, they do a really good job if they have a locked diff and hard suspension they put out about 100rwkw and its just enough to get them drifting.

That's with thier standard engine? and if i wanted to upgrade the engine in it how hard/expensive would that be?

R31/s with the standard RB30E put out very close to 100rwkw and hive quite a decent amount of torque.

their weight balance is not too bad and parts are cheap as chips :P

The best was to set one up purely for drift is strip everything out of the car just leaving 2 seats, dash and door trims and gut the rest this will help by keeping the car lighter.

then get the diff locked by welding it at about $50-100 and then buy really stiff springs far stiller than you would use on the road. around 5k rear and 7k front. they will set you back between $200 and $300

I have seen cars set up like this perform remarkably and having spent all of $1700 for the car and a set of springs and a welded diff.

you can also turbo the stock R31 engine using factory parts from a VL turbo but all up you will be looking at around $1200 for ECU, injectors, turbo, dump, crossover pipe, taking the total to $3000

and for a grand more than that you can buy an unregisterable race only import shitter like an S13.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...