Jump to content
SAU Community

Gazelle Project & Drift Car

rSrkt_

By rSrkt_,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

rSrkt_ Enthusiast

rSrkt_

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I'm looking at buying a Nissan gazelle and turning into a drift car, so i can learn to drift and gain more experience with modding cars before i am old enough to buy/drive a skyline.

I was wondering if there was any other sort of car that you would recommend for me to look at before i purchase a gazelle, that would make a good/cheap drift/project car.

Also, what engine would you recommend i put in it?

I chose the gazelle because i heard that ca18det/sr20det can just bolt straight in. (don’t really know much about engines tbh)

Heres one i am looking at there aren’t really many around :P

And about how much will it cost me to get it up and running as a drift car, not counting the exterior and interior work.

Keep in mind that i am:

17 years old

Wont be driving it around town, only on tracks

Have an income of about 160 a week

Going to put alot of time into it.

Also if you know anyone that is selling one tell me

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153849-gazelle-project-drift-car/
Share on other sites
CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

you need to get one with indapendant rear suspension. part from thet they make great drift machines.

Also consider an R31 skyline, they do a really good job if they have a locked diff and hard suspension they put out about 100rwkw and its just enough to get them drifting.

Cheers.

rSrkt_ Enthusiast

rSrkt_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Justjap have an immaculate factory turbo S12 in their lot right now that has to be seen to be believed. It has an original 120,000km on it or something but looks like its brand new.

Could i please have a link?

Also consider an R31 skyline, they do a really good job if they have a locked diff and hard suspension they put out about 100rwkw and its just enough to get them drifting.

That's with thier standard engine? and if i wanted to upgrade the engine in it how hard/expensive would that be?

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

R31/s with the standard RB30E put out very close to 100rwkw and hive quite a decent amount of torque.

their weight balance is not too bad and parts are cheap as chips :P

The best was to set one up purely for drift is strip everything out of the car just leaving 2 seats, dash and door trims and gut the rest this will help by keeping the car lighter.

then get the diff locked by welding it at about $50-100 and then buy really stiff springs far stiller than you would use on the road. around 5k rear and 7k front. they will set you back between $200 and $300

I have seen cars set up like this perform remarkably and having spent all of $1700 for the car and a set of springs and a welded diff.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

you can also turbo the stock R31 engine using factory parts from a VL turbo but all up you will be looking at around $1200 for ECU, injectors, turbo, dump, crossover pipe, taking the total to $3000

and for a grand more than that you can buy an unregisterable race only import shitter like an S13.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...