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Cheers mate. Engine bay is looking good now anyway..

How much of an issue does having the driveline alignment off matter?, as long as the universal in the driveshaft is not inline it should be fine.

Just have to space the gearbox crossmember, and probably make the gearstick longer. Sounds easy.. :rofl:

Hi Guys,

I have been following the progress of this thread with great interest for some time now. I have an R32 sedan which I plan on converting to the 3L block in an attempt to find some torque. I scored a S2 VL block from the wreakers with crank, rods and pistons for $50 and am currently stripping it down for an acid wash and crack test.

I’m stuck at the front of the crank with the timing gear, it won’t budge at all. From what I can see in the VL manual it is a press fit so I’ve been soaking it in WD-40 and banging it with a rubber mallet for ages.

Can anyone shed any light on how to get it off?

Cheers,

MicK

Mick,

Use a pully puller! =)

Looks like a claw, it has three legs that sit behind the pulley. Then theres a 1/2" thread that sits on the crank, when you tighten the bar it pulls the pulley off.

super-crap auto sell them from about $12.00

If theres not enought room to use the puller, use 2 heavy duty flatheads and pry the barsted loose. They eventualy give up!

Cheers,

Trev

Thanks for the reply Trev,

I tried useing a pully puller but the belt gaurd that is cast into the oil pump wraps around the bottom half of the gear and makes it impossible to use the 3 legged puller. I tried a 2 legged puller but there is not enough room between the oil pump and the gear to get the hooks behind the gear.

I remember reading here that someone else had the same problem, but the search page won't let me search in one thread only. From memory they ended up cutting it off but i'm not sure how u could do it without damaging the crank.

Get the angle grinder out and put a slice down one of the valleys, then hit it with a cold chisel. They usually come off after that. If not, put two angle grinder slices in it, 180 degrees apart and when you hit it with the cold chissel it will break in half. New pulleys are very cheap.:D

Hey Mick,

Trust me i have pulled MANY "seized" timing gears off. (Proof off this is the amount of dents in my garage walls) :D

They WILL EVENTUALLY come off. No matter how impossable it looks/feels.

If you really cant be bortherd persisting with it you can try the following:

Are you going to use the RB30 oil pump anyways?

If your not, go the hack & cut the timing belt guard off the oil pump and use the puller.

good luck... I feel your pain! :D

Just have to be carefull not to loose the arse end out and mount a gutter. :P

Have a little faith in my driving :P

To take the timing belt gear off i drilled 3 holes into the gear inline, from the end of the snout of the crank towards the motor, taking care not to go into the crank. (Dodgy, but be careful its ok). Then i used a chisel and weddged it into the hole created by drilling, and kind of tapped it carefully, till it wedged in the gear, then kept tapping and it split the gear, and opening it just enough to slide off....obviously you kill the gear, but i needed the oil pump.....meh.

It sits on the crank on a pin too, so it wont twist (duh).....

ohhhh I am feeling your pain!!!! or maybe I am feeling the pain I was feeling when I was trying to get this one off ???

We smashed the oil pump to 50 pieces and just wedged the biggest chizel wedge we could find into it and about 2 hours of contstant bashing it finally came off. (then it got chucked in the river)

use a hot spanner and get the thing red hot, then use a puller. Failing that if u dont mind taking the crank out, the take the thrusts out and move the crank as far forward as possible, then cut the dowels on the pump housing and remove the lot in one hit, then take it to someone with a press.

thanks for all the replies guys, i ended up smashing the oil pump. I hope VL oil pumps arn't worth much :)

I'll leave the gear on and let the mechanic deal with it when it goes in for the acid wash and crack test.

just curious what Gearbox's are everyone using for their RB30 conversions? and is it worth me picking up an MX7 VLTurbo Gearbox as I heard their pretty much the same strength wise as the 25 and GTR boxes is that true? I'm planning to do this to a R32 4 Door so will the MX7 bolt up pretty much or will there be alot of work to get it fitted? or do I have to shell out for the 25Box? and is anyone using the RB20 GB? Main power figure i'm aiming for is around 200 - 250 but with alot more torque of the 3L ;-)

The MX7 isn't as strong as the RB25 box.

If you are looking at 200-250rwkw with std street tyres (no nitto's or RE55S) then the RB20t box will hold up well. The MX7 is a tiny little bit stronger than the rb20t box.

Mine is pretty noisy these days so it should be interesting how long it holds the 3ltr. I've still got the stocker turbo.

The clutch also has a lot to do with how long a box will last.

A ceramic (on/off) or a twin plate type clutch are harsh on the box and have no give.

A std uprated clutch has a little give and is a little softer engaging.

Thats interesting so what mods have you got on that engine are you basically just using everything off the RB20DET motor bolted onto the 30? what are you doing for pistons etc? using forgies or? and even though its been discussed through death i'm guessing these engines can handle drift abuse pretty well!

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