Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

phantom

when the block are bored we always make sure the run speed is low ie the bore tool moves slowly up and down the cylinder giving you a finely hatched pattern about roughly 25-35 degrees to the horizon if you where looking straight at the bore from inside. As my engine machinist has now aquirred a torque plate honer i will be using that from now on although the difference is minute its still ensuring the best possible result.

discopotato03

with standard rod and pistons you can run the standard headgasket and using the headgasket on foges with my experiece with arias will give you around 8.6:1 comperssion using the hightops with standard rods, using the flat tops i believe its below 8 around 7.4:1. However the eagle rods being chev arent actually the correct length they are 6 inch not 5.92 that standard rods are and the sit above the deck height enough that you will need at least a 1.2mm headgast to acheive a squish and avoid valve isssue when running bigger camshafts. All this info is based on the 26head but its pretty much the same if you are using a 25 head, but the 20 head is different, correct me if im wrong i believe the cc of the rb20 head is 63cc and the rb26 is 66cc so it changes it all right there.

phantom

when the block are bored we always make sure the run speed is low ie the bore tool moves slowly up and down the cylinder giving you a finely hatched pattern about roughly 25-35 degrees to the horizon if you where looking straight at the bore from inside. As my engine machinist has now aquirred a torque plate honer i will be using that from now on although the difference is minute its still ensuring the best possible result.

discopotato03

with standard rod and pistons you can run the standard headgasket and using the headgasket on foges with my experiece with arias will give you around 8.6:1 comperssion using the hightops with standard rods, using the flat tops i believe its below 8 around 7.4:1. However the eagle rods being chev arent actually the correct length they are 6 inch not 5.92 that standard rods are and the sit above the deck height enough that you will need at least a 1.2mm headgast to acheive a squish and avoid valve isssue when running bigger camshafts. All this info is based on the 26head but its pretty much the same if you are using a 25 head, but the 20 head is different, correct me if im wrong i believe the cc of the rb20 head is 63cc and the rb26 is 66cc so it changes it all right there.

Who is your machinist, does someone in Canberra have a torque plate now ?

  • 2 weeks later...

My appoligies for bringing up old stuff but I couldnt find any photos as most of the pics dont work anymore in older posts.

My engine builder hasnt seen my head yet but he tells me that the rb25det head rear passenger's side water jacket sits out past the block, the na rb25 head doesnt. I'm still scratching my head how he came to that conclusion when my head doesn't have this problem.

Now all kinds of thoughts are going through my head atm, do I have an NA head or are there variances in the 25 turbo heads, VVT is an obvious one (mines VVT) then I go on thinking do I have an na inlet manifold,cams and valve springs...:confused:

The pic below is my bare head, the orange arrow is where i've been told the problem is.

12979rbhead.jpg

The complete top end came off a 33 gtst so I would assume it would be a turbo head.

In the past replies SK and Joel have used na heads, what are the characteristics of the na cams on the new engine? any problems with reversion etc....

Cause if I'm stuck with na valve springs etc..:slap: it maybe time for tomei pon cams and stiffer springs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
    • Not only should you be testing compression with a strong battery, you should be putting a charger on it. These cars have pretty small batteries and it's possible to discharge them enough that by the last cylinder the starter isn't turning as fast. 
×
×
  • Create New...