Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I read the PDF and i can source an RB25DE head quite cheap. Been the time of day, no engine builders are open at the moment thats why i asked for a "rough estimate" how many thousand dollars will it cost was what i was wondering? Ive got a shopping list at the moment of stuff to buy etc tec, was going to make a phone call tomorow, but i wanted to know tonight.

Quoting a rough figure isnt brain surgery is it? :)

Sweet as!

Thanks for the guestimate! I was hoping it was around the 2 grand mark. Im budneting for around 3 grans just in case. Ive seen all your posts and dyno graphs and am very impressed!

Ill let you guys know how i go with quotes from engine builders etc etc.

Cheers!

100_1381.jpg

just thought i'd post a vid of my 4door. 3rd gear burnout. bout 4000rpm

gotta love rb30det power. this is the arse end of a 2 minute burnout. turn up the volume!

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/100_1381.mpg

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/100_1381.wmv

http://www.kero.drifthost.com/videos/100_1381.AVI

cheers

As you can see in my previous post, my cheap head has now gone bye bye. :(

I rang around a few places to get some prices. Just Jap wanted 995 for an RB25DE head, SSSautomotive said they could supply me with the whole RB25DE motor for 1000. Is there something i am missing here? Or is just jap just got really high prices???

Also spoke to engine builder about rebuilding an RB30 bottom end, to get "the lot" rods, pistons, crank and block rebuilt 2200.

Please excuse my ignorance, this is my first time and i have pretty much NFI about prices on this stuff, when i get a chance over the weekend ill try to read all the posts in this thread.

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...