R33 Rb30 Conversion

[DYNOBUSTER]

hi my first post

I am building a RB30DET with a R34 NEO head I have taken a few pics if anyone sees anything glaringly bad please tell me yes I know the VCT solenoid is from a R33

I have a S11 R33 oil pump too

I got this exhaust manifold its one of those chinesey Ebay things but it seems good just gave it a quick touch up with the die grinder and im happy with it

I have heard stories about these craking but I think as long as you keep the weight from the exhaust hanging off it I dont think I should have any trouble <_<

it has the RB30E pistons in it and I am using a COMETIC head gasket

the engine came out of a 1 owner grampa VL calais with a very gentle 97k and is immaculate just looked at it and everythings brand new

the engine is going to be fitted with a 3n71b jatco and go into a R31

Edited August 20, 2005 by DYNOBUSTER

[StockyMcStock]

odd angle on the turbine flange there - you sure it's going to clear the rocker cover and bonnet?

so we can take that as confirmation that the R34 NEO head fits straight onto the RB30 block? all water/oil galleries lined up fine? the VCT looks exactly the same as earlier models, in fact the whole head looks exactly the same as mine.

[DYNOBUSTER]

The turbo will clear the rocker cover only verry barely

i will check the NEO head very carefully and take photos for you

Edited August 21, 2005 by DYNOBUSTER

[MAD_HUH]

im doing this conversion atm, i have an rb25de vvt head but i am going to disable the vvt. i am also using rb25det cams. my question is since im not going to use the vvt is it possible to change the inlet cam gear to one that doesnt have the oil reservoir? can i just use two cam gears that look the same so i dont have that big oil reservoir sticking out the front of my head?

[DYNOBUSTER]

heres another pic of the engine I built it today THIS ENGINE USES A R33 RB25DET HEAD

this is a big claim but hopefully it can be substansiated by others

I checked the R33 and R34NEO heads today and I have come to the conclusion that the oil and water gallerys are the same this was determined by placing a R33 RB25det on a R34 NEO and I have a RB30E head gasket and checked that on it too and all holes lined up excepting the usual VCT oil supply on the RB30e

the only difference I have noted between the R33 and R34 head are as follows

*coil pack mountings are different on the R34 having 2 small bolts and the coils being seperate and the R33 having alloy brackets and 12mm bolts holding it all down

*the VCT solenoid has a different end on it but appears to operate the same but has a check ball in the end and is modified to not require O'rings on the R34

*the R34 on the end of the intake cam the VCT acuator has a 12mm allen head screw as opposed to the R33 plate with 4 bolts and a O'ring

*the oil drain which is evident on the R33 head on the front of the block on the exhaust side is ommitted on the R34 visable in the attached photo because this engine uses the 33 head

*the R34 has shim on bucket lash ajusters as opposed to the R33 hydraulic lash ajusters

and I have had a read thru the posts and it seems that many of you suggest to weld up the VCT oil gallery I decided that it was a better idea to drill and tap the VCT oil feed with a M8x1.5 hex head grub screw easier and I dont have to weld and re-machine the head face it didnt make any difference to me because I have an alloy capable TIG so getting somthing alloy welded was no problem I just dont see why you would weld a head for no reason

Edited August 21, 2005 by DYNOBUSTER

[MonstaS4]

If the R34 head is identical to the R33, i think you'll find you have to add (weld & re-surface) material around the front water gallery. It only has 2mm or so to seal with the block.

[discopotato03]

When you say shim on bucket I gather you mean shim on top of the bucket like some Toyota twin cams ie 4AGE . Makes life easier than under the bucket and the labour intensive drama of cams in/out to set clearances .

Cheers A .

[Scribble]

Fitzpatrick Speed Works: I know you said the water return was there but im curious about something. I have a blanked off bit about the same size as the oil return blank, then i also have the pre tapped hole with a bolt in it right below it.

I have noticed that some people have the blank drilled out and tapped and seem to use that. Does it matter which one i use? would the higher flow be preferable or does it not matter as much?

Thanks for your time,

Scribble

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

I plumb my water returns back around into the front of the plenum where the water leaves the head to go to the radiator. On a rb26 head its really easy there is a spot rigth next to the radiator hose from the head, on an rb26 I just tap in a brass fitting....

Heres a pic to explain the side of the block.

Hope this helps

[DYNOBUSTER]

If the R34 head is identical to the R33, i think you'll find you have to add (weld & re-surface) material around the front water gallery. It only has 2mm or so to seal with the block.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

your right about the region arount the front part of the head where the VCT is and the water gallery is there is only a small amount of metal where the gasket seals with the RB30e head gasket but I have thought of another way to solve this issue what do you think of using a R33/34 VCT head gasket on the RB30 block.. the gasket from the R33/34 would have more material in the gasket there and I would think that that would solve the small sealing area because it would match the coolant gallery?

has anyone tried that

secondly has anyone had issues with coolant leaking from this position using a stock RB30e headgasket

and if it did fail the worst case senario would be external water leakage.... its a bit of a dodgy thing to say but nothing a bit of chemi weld woudn't solve (use it all the time on the "other" engines I work with being solid gasket CHEVs when they leak using special threebond for head gaskets the O'ringed blocks seem to cause external coolant leaks occasionaly)

or... what about if you got some good quality ThreeBond and filled in the bit where the R33 gasket would go and rather than relying on the RB30e gasket to do the sealing the ThreeBond will easily cope with that

ThreeBond mmmmm

Edited August 22, 2005 by DYNOBUSTER

[MonstaS4]

I dont think the RB25 gasket will give you anymore sealing area. For the sake of a few more $$$, get it done right the first time i say.

[Cubes]

MonstaS4, Any chance of a pic?

I will include it in the rb30 guide.

The R32 RB25DE head doesn't have this issue it appears.

[StockyMcStock]

yep it's only an issue on the R33 and R34 heads, anything with VCT actually. overlay the RB30 head gasket onto the head and it becomes pretty evident what needs to be done. there gallery is shaped differently to avoid the VCT hole, but still have enough cross-section for water flow through the head.

[DYNOBUSTER]

yep it's only an issue on the R33 and R34 heads, anything with VCT actually. overlay the RB30 head gasket onto the head and it becomes pretty evident what needs to be done. there gallery is shaped differently to avoid the VCT hole, but still have enough cross-section for water flow through the head.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

you are right about the 33 34 VCT gasket will not give you any more sealing area I checked it the block is the problem

well I built one without welding it (the head) and it seems to be OK

but I will probably weld a bit in there on the next one

just have to get the head faced for 40bux thats not going to kill me

[DYNOBUSTER]

three pics

one of the head

one of the VCT head with a RB30e gasket overlaid

and one where I coloured in the bits the gasket doesnt cover

the gap between the water gallery and the outside of the engine is 4mm

are these good enough for the guide??

Edited August 24, 2005 by DYNOBUSTER

[Cubes]

Thanks.. The pics are gooood.

[StockyMcStock]

seeking absolute clarification on this one:

i was under the impression that the front cam bearing will still get oil if the VCT oil feed in the head is welded up. a guy i know reckons it won't, and he went to lengths to re-route a fresh oil supply in there.

now has anyone actually done a 25/30 and simply welded it up with no problems? still running fine after XXXX km's?

[Cubes]

If we find this out this will also be placed in the guide

[StockyMcStock]

I think SydneyKid said he has gotten rid of the VCT on an RB30DET while fitting aftermarket cams - but not 100% sure if he had to re-route the supply or not. Also it would be useful to know if you can leave the VCT solenoid in there or does a different plug have to be used when it's disconnected.

[retrotec]

I know there has been plenty of talk about the different oil pumps.

1. Does anyone have pics and/or the part number of the larger style oil pump? Nissan keep asking for a vin and engine number that I don't have.

2. When it comes to machining the collar etc.. what areas need to be machined?

3. Is this the drive collar needed? *see attached - screen capture from Greenlines site.

4. Is this what the collar looks like when on the crank? http://rbmotoring.com/gallery/album36/abf?full=1

Note: http://rbmotoring.com/gallery/album297/aab This r34 crank looks similar to the collar

Zoom's latest project, the 33 with the 32 GTR motor shit itself due to the oil pump shattering. It's got me thinking twice about a 32 pump.

I'm hoping someone out there knows I dont want to be the first to find out.

Edited August 31, 2005 by retrotec