R33 Rb30 Conversion

[discopotato03]

I remember Gary saying that the trouble with three litres is breathing through ports and valves intended for 2.5-2.6 litres . If so how much larger would the valves need to be and whats available that would fit ?

Cheers A .

[@irborne]

It came from japan and is a jun plenum, bigger then greddy etc, needs a bit of work on the inside of the tb flange needs a clean up, also the runners and i need to take the ports out to suit my head as they are for an rb20det and my r32 rb25de ports on my head are much bigger, all up cost was $1400 for plenum and 800cc sard twin spray injectors, not bad eh

that plenum is a Jun knock off, and it's can be found on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140022973792). please don't mistaken with the real Jum intake. these are very horrible, look inside the ports:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=54165

Edited September 5, 2006 by @irborne

[r33_racer]

If it breathes 20% more, then naturally you would think a base of 20% increase would be needed, at least.

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

that plenum is a Jun knock off, and it's can be found on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140022973792). please don't mistaken with the real Jum intake. these are very horrible, look inside the ports:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=54165

Interesting think ill be making a phone call, yes i didnt think a genuine manifold would be left unfinished, but not to worry im taking the step out and the rough slag on the inside of the tb, wouldnt want that going into the motor!

[Sydneykid]

ok guys some good enlightening info thanx,

1. so no one can say theyre are ne reliability issues with the 30, so basically you guys are saying the 30 is just as reliable as the 25 as long as youve done precautions such as good tuning and strengthened internals.

2. how bout comparing both engines in their factory form.. would they have the exact strength fundamentally?

3. i guess u can buy a crank collar from any good jap distributer, anyone selling one, what they worth??

also bought the bottom end rebuild kit today, should be sending the block away for acid bath, decking ect by friday, just waiting for cash for rods and pistons.

btw the builders really credible, its applied engineering in welshpool perth. i guess he might not know his rb30s well, or just really picky!

i think i might go ahead with it, and yee see what happens... you never never know, if never never go!

Suggestions follow;

1. Tuning, tuning and knowing the limits and not exceeding them

2. Similar strength, but a 3 litre will make the same power at 20% lower RPM.

3. Around $150 from ProEngines (ACT), they are on this forum

cheers

[Sydneykid]

I remember Gary saying that the trouble with three litres is breathing through ports and valves intended for 2.5-2.6 litres . If so how much larger would the valves need to be and whats available that would fit ?

Cheers A .

The RB26 inlet flow is pretty good, but the exhaust is a little bit less than ideal in proportion. So any work done on the inlet needs to be exceeded by improvements on the exhaust. Generally speaking carefully porting the inlet with a triple cut on the valve seats is sufficient. The exhaust needs the same, plus it could do with 1 mm larger valves if you are aiming for power in excess of 850 bhp.

If your power target is under that (as most people’s is), then you simply need to know what you are doing as far as porting is concerned and then balance the results on the flow bench accordingly.

cheers

[SLIMVLT]

would u have he phone number of pro engines

[shanef]

(02) 6299 5211

[AD4M]

can anyone cross refrence these for me

Mains

AR 202 -5215

Head studs

AR202-4207

AR202-4214

AR202-5214

I got these numbers from the rocket industries site, they had 3 seperate part numbers for the head studs, can anyone help haha

cheers

Adam

[[200]]

Head studs for what head?

202-4207 is for GTR which is an ARP2000 stud, slighty stronger than others and a bit dearer too. This part number is the official ARP part.

202-4301 will suit RB20 and RB25 motors.

That 202-5215 isn't listed in their catalog.

[Craved]

does ARP run a rod bolt for the std RB30 rods? or will the VG 30 bolts fit like they do on the GTR rods ??

[[200]]

You just use SR20 rod bolts. Just buy 2 lots of them and have 2 left over.

I've sold a few and no one has problems with them. VG30s may fit but I'm not too sure if the thread pitch is the same as the RB30s.

[Craved]

how are the prices on the SR20 bolts vs the VG30 ?

trade of about $88 for the VG's

not even sure they are gonna be needed on the std rods, std piston limited to 300rwkw and 7000 rpm..

[[200]]

In that case it would be cheaper to get the VG30 bolts.

Just try confirm that they actually fit. I'm sure SK would know.

[benm]

I've flicked over the first 50 pages of this thread in the past 2hrs but now im just completely confused. I have a damaged 1994 R32 GTR RB26DETT with 81,000km completely internally standard running very nicely (324awkw @ 20psi running rich) just with Tomei Cams and 2530's. My block needs replacing due to a shattered bellhousing which ruined the bolt threads so I need to replace the block regardless.

I can get a bored/honed Rb26 block for around $500, forged pistons, cyo'd rods, new oil and water pump and bolt it all back up.

The other option would be the 26/30 combo but im unsure exactly what I need to get/do to make it all work. My target is 400awkw (mainly drag with some circuit fun) obviously it won't be run at 400kw all day everyday just on those special occassions (its a weekend car anyway). The idea of more torque and less boost appeals to me.

I have zero mechanical skills and knowledge so basically want a list of what I need to do so I can work out which path to take.

[Scooby]

I've flicked over the first 50 pages of this thread in the past 2hrs but now im just completely confused. I have a damaged 1994 R32 GTR RB26DETT with 81,000km completely internally standard running very nicely (324awkw @ 20psi running rich) just with Tomei Cams and 2530's. My block needs replacing due to a shattered bellhousing which ruined the bolt threads so I need to replace the block regardless.

I can get a bored/honed Rb26 block for around $500, forged pistons, cyo'd rods, new oil and water pump and bolt it all back up.

The other option would be the 26/30 combo but im unsure exactly what I need to get/do to make it all work. My target is 400awkw (mainly drag with some circuit fun) obviously it won't be run at 400kw all day everyday just on those special occassions (its a weekend car anyway). The idea of more torque and less boost appeals to me.

I have zero mechanical skills and knowledge so basically want a list of what I need to do so I can work out which path to take.

to see what's involved with 26/30 go here:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthre...ight=r32+combat

cheers

[r33_racer]

or conversely shanef is doing one for his 32 gtr. Perhaps he can clarify what he has done to his motor, as i think hes chasing some massive power lvl also. I believe his motor is done hes just waiting on that adapter plate.

[Adriano]

Im also doing this, hoping for 475Rwkw, not to dissuade you, but if your not mechanically minded, it will be a very expensive exercise to pay someone to do the complete conversion.

[benm]

That's why im on here to try and get as much info as possible.

[shanef]

Im also doing this, hoping for 475Rwkw, not to dissuade you, but if your not mechanically minded, it will be a very expensive exercise to pay someone to do the complete conversion.

depends on what work you get done will determine how much it'll cost.

for the basic conversion, thats supply rb30 bottom end, have rb26 head together, ud be looking at right on $1000 for someone to do it for you. With the head 'freshened up' and the exhaust port re-profiled, intake/exhaust manifolds match ported to the head, oil galleries modified (i quizzed the guy who built mine about running an external oil drain from the back of the head to the sump, he said it wasnt needed, and this is a circuit engine) oil restrictors tinkered with, all machining (boring/honing), balance everything, reset valve clearances, supply and fit new idler pulley & supply all bearings i got quoted $3900.

Then you need to get your pistons & rods, cams & cam gears, valvetrain goodies inregards to the cam choice so to do it "properly" you probably wont see change from $10k.

Oh and you need one of them sump adapter plates if your running it in AWD.

That's all i can think of at the moment, hope that helped