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Cubes i know where your coming from and concur fully. I wish everyone else would live by that also. It might save someone some heartache or it might not. Why would you not play it safe now when you easily can? Collars are cheap and readily available. Well i know JUN ones have come down in price too cause im pretty sure we got ours from Hi-Octane for like 200odd bux. Unless its a proengines one named a 'JUN' crank collar.

a company called japaneseperformance in nz do them also.

email them on [email protected] and say byron sent you and they should hook you a good deal. i think they are cheaper that above definitley

i definitley get the concept now, just had to have a closer look at the pictures as im blind sometimes hah

Then there are old builds like mine that havn't done 1km yet... :(

It will some day!!

I don't have a crank collar also.. same reason as Cubes, the cost at the time.

Oh got the dry sump setup on the OS RB30 almost done. A lot of work in that to fit it all in a stock engine bay.

Drysump1.jpg

Drysump2.jpg

Edited by GTR-Ben
' date='13 Sep 2006, 11:05 PM' post='2491706']

What did that dry sump setup set you back?

I don't own the posted motor. Mine is the red one in my sig :D

Most of the cost would be in labour.. especially when fitting all that into a stock engine bay where you have to allow for all the other accessories. The custom fabrication and cost of all the braided lines and fittings adds up also.

Why would you have to fit it into a stock engine bay? Ive seen race cars with dry sump setups spread out through the car to suit weight distribution and the problem of space limitations.

You can spread it out abit if its a dedicated track car...a road reg car well... why would you even bother doing all that work to a road registered car anyway?

Eliminates any chance of oil surge, lets you hold more oil and removes crank case pressure which results in a slight increase of hp . Its perfect for circuit racing as the oil is totally controlled so to say.

Depending on the setup though if you did it yourself then it would probably only cost 2-3grand maybe if you can source parts well and that would include you making the bracketry and all the lines and so forth. If you get someone else to do it, i think a price i heard from a bloke at the track was about 6-7grand.

Edited by r33_racer
Why would you have to fit it into a stock engine bay? Ive seen race cars with dry sump setups spread out through the car to suit weight distribution and the problem of space limitations.

You can spread it out abit if its a dedicated track car...a road reg car well... why would you even bother doing all that work to a road registered car anyway?

Well.. it is a road reg car.

Why do this to a road reg car? well why have anything this crazy for a street car?

Street legal street car that he wants to drive around.. yet be fast down the 1/4.

It all fits fine, just a bit more work in doing it. Less piping etc though :rolleyes:

rb30e and rb30et are virtually identical. One has lower compression then the other to suit a turbocharged state. However the na pistons are better as they provide a higher CR, where as the turbo pistons give too lower CR. Rods and crank are all the same, blocks are also. Only difference is the series model, one has blanked off holes for oil and water feed for turbo and the other has tapped holes to suit but with bungs in them if NA.

If it helps we used a series 2 NA block.

I should also add that you should read the guide it might answer some questions you may have.

Edited by r33_racer
rb30e and rb30et are virtually identical. One has lower compression then the other to suit a turbocharged state. However the na pistons are better as they provide a higher CR, where as the turbo pistons give too lower CR. Rods and crank are all the same, blocks are also. Only difference is the series model, one has blanked off holes for oil and water feed for turbo and the other has tapped holes to suit but with bungs in them if NA.

If it helps we used a series 2 NA block.

I should also add that you should read the guide it might answer some questions you may have.

whats the view regarding pistons should I go for CP pistons with flat top compression 8.5 or dome 9.0?

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