R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Scooby]

Argo didnt always do them but do now, and unless I'm míssing something there's:

http://splparts.com/Parts/Z32/Engine/JWT/JWTConrodsZ32.jpg

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/c...le-crower-2.JPG

http://www.ttzed.com/products/productimage...RS6071N3D_t.jpg

~3-4psi in fourth gear at 60km/h ~1900rpm up Flagstaff is impressive.

Cheers

[Cubes]

~3-4psi in fourth gear at 60km/h ~1900rpm up Flagstaff is impressive.

Cheers

It was only partial throttle.. Thats all the boost it needed to lug another car behind on a tow rope.

[shanef]

Thanks Michael.

Shane they serve to reduce the amount of oil that adheres to/contacts the crank. They are also known as a windage tray.

I wondered if it might be a good idea to leave them out since there aren't any oil squirters, although my conrods have the oil notches in them.

hmm okay, i best go bust out the tap set again then

[Adriano]

If possible, i would prefer to mount the windage tray/crank scrapers to the sump or adapter plate, as drilling m6 holes on the cradle can only weaken it, and the rb30 needs all the bottom end rigidity it can get, ive heard of people getting the cradle cryogeniced to strengthen it.

[Scooby]

you'll probably need to machine bosses into the girdle too.

[kaige]

Hey guys about this timming belt issue, Ive been trying to chase up a " gates powergrip gt2/gt3 1200 8MGT 30 "

To suit the 25/30

I try'd heaps of places and only one that came through was CBC bearings. I orderd the belt, had it cut down to 25 mm wide, took it home and the pitch in the teeth was for INDUSTRIAL applications. Although the part numbers are exactly the same " 1200 8MGT 30 " on the belt. Industrial teeth are more round on the edges but thats the only differance.

Has anyone ever found this belt somwere to suit an automotive style pitch?

[r33_racer]

yeh thats the only part that was worrying me...weakening the girdle that little bit more by drilling and tapping a few holes. but 26 girdles have them from factory...the tapped holes that is.

Probably wouldnt work cause of crank throw...but could a 26 girdle be used in a 30 block?

[Adriano]

No, the throw is too great.

[r33_racer]

haha anyone into making billet girdles with tapped holes for crank scrappers to bolt to...plus the billet aspect would be stronger then the factory cast piece...maybe whilst at that make some billet cranks for the rb30 as well. Surely that would increase the bottom end rigidity quite abit.

Not sure if anyone remembers, but im sure there was a bloke on here a while back who was from the states and was looking at producing new billet cranks for rb25, 26, and 30...does anyone know if anything has emerged from this? Or know of anyone else?

[r33_racer]

Finally got around to getting some pictures of the dry sump setup in the race car....its still not finished yet...but its making progress. We gotta mount the ally pipes under the car after i tig on the -16 ends and then mount the tank and finish off that end of the hoses...check out the mass of speedflow crap!

Last one is just a new power steering reservoir i fabbed up. Shiny!

[Scooby]

jeez you've been busy. looking at the photo second row, second from last - there is a black metal pipe connected to a speedflow fitting. looks like it's supported but if not it seems it could be a victim to vibration?

nice work though.

Edited December 21, 2006 by Scooby

[StockyMcStock]

jesus, what a nightmare! just make sure you don't mix up any of the scavenge and feed lines in that mess haha.

did you get rid of that viscous clutch fan yet? thermos FTW!

[r33_racer]

yeh scooby thats actually a modified front head oil return that would normally goto a fitting on a rb25 block...it worked out nicely as the oil feed and yes it is supported. You can see abit of flat sticking out about 30mm up from the fitting, well that goes behind and is held by that bolt you see on the right of the flat. Great minds think alike yeh?

Yes we are getting rid of it neill as we physcially cannot run it now as it fouls on the dry sump pulley/belt. We are going to bolt up the other thermo we had there and run the two.

[shanef]

haha anyone into making billet girdles with tapped holes for crank scrappers to bolt to...plus the billet aspect would be stronger then the factory cast piece...maybe whilst at that make some billet cranks for the rb30 as well. Surely that would increase the bottom end rigidity quite abit.

Not sure if anyone remembers, but im sure there was a bloke on here a while back who was from the states and was looking at producing new billet cranks for rb25, 26, and 30...does anyone know if anything has emerged from this? Or know of anyone else?

i'm actually doing the CAD drawings for 2 custom girdles. one for a 1g and one for an sr20.

if your serious about doing a custom girdle, let me know and i'll look into doing up a CAD file for you

[Darkon]

hey more advice needed, replaced turbo still no good been put down to worn valve guides so the head will be coming off

but before i do this i got one quick question about the way the mechanic set up the oil return tubes

what they've done is T'd the oil return tube from the head into the oil return tube from the turbo then into the block is this the correct way to setup it up on a rb25det vvt head rb30e block?

[Darkon]

okay never mind on this question about the oil return this is correct came across pics of conans car posted six months ago gotta love search button

okay few more question this oilly smoking is still driving me crazy i really don't want to pull the head off if i don't have to

so does anyone think it could be anything else the symptons are no smoke in 1st 2nd or 3rd hit about 120km in 4th and she just blows smoke absolutlely every where and will continue to trail smoke in 5th, after this it will some times blow smoke in lower gears but only when giving a squirt, it seems to run quite well untill it dumps all the oil in 4th, any chance this could be a problem with the way the motor was setup? or most likely valve guides.

if it is valve guides is it worth while to upgrade to gtr valve springs or are the r33 rb25det springs more than adequate? and lastly on head gaskets any dramas with a nismo 11044-rr590 Gasket Cylinder Head - 0.9 mm x 87mm

[shanef]

correct me if im wrong, but excessive oil blowby is the result of badly worn rings

[r33_racer]

.9 thick headgasket....std is 1.2. What pistons are you running in your rb30det? What cr did you achieve?

i wonder if the oil return is getting backed up cause your front head oil return is t'd into the turbos oil return. Turbo oil return needs to be big and by itself as it has lots of frothy airated oil coming through it and then you start putting more oil through it, it could be possible.

We drilled and tapped a fitting into the block for the oil return from the head on our first motor.

But if you pull the head off you can change a few things...do ya guides, get stronger springs, just generally freshen up the head.

[r33_racer]

shane..if your valve guides/seals are shot...oil leaks down from the head and in to the combustion chamber everytime a valve goes up and down. It gives the impression that your rings are gone...but if his motor was built properly...bored block to suit new pistons and new rings with good tolerances then he shouldnt have blowby as a result of that. However he should have had all the valves/seats cut and leak tested before putting the head on also.

Edited December 21, 2006 by r33_racer

[Darkon]

just to add the motor wasn't refreshed i bought it off the forums for a bloody good price but it was just rb30e block with a rb25det head slapped straight on nothing refreshed, thje guy i bought it off was putting it in his own car before he had some financial dif and had to sell up on everything, it was still a bloody good buy, but it seems that the head wasn't checked properly only visual inspection as well as the block so there is a chance that it could be rings but the mechanic that fitted it said it was valves and it does seem to blow smoke mainly when i get off the throttle