Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got around to getting some pictures of the dry sump setup in the race car....its still not finished yet...but its making progress. We gotta mount the ally pipes under the car after i tig on the -16 ends and then mount the tank and finish off that end of the hoses...check out the mass of speedflow crap!

post-12828-1166694939.jpgpost-12828-1166694960.jpgpost-12828-1166695006.jpgpost-12828-1166695026.jpgpost-12828-1166695046.jpgpost-722-1129090407.jpgpost-12828-1166695087.jpgpost-12828-1166695111.jpg

Last one is just a new power steering reservoir i fabbed up. Shiny!

Fun making that all fit. Try it with 2 more lots of fittings on the pump. Nightmare.

so does anyone think it could be anything else the symptons are no smoke in 1st 2nd or 3rd hit about 120km in 4th and she just blows smoke absolutlely every where and will continue to trail smoke in 5th, after this it will some times blow smoke in lower gears but only when giving a squirt, it seems to run quite well untill it dumps all the oil in 4th, any chance this could be a problem with the way the motor was setup? or most likely valve guides.

if it is valve guides is it worth while to upgrade to gtr valve springs or are the r33 rb25det springs more than adequate? and lastly on head gaskets any dramas with a nismo 11044-rr590 Gasket Cylinder Head - 0.9 mm x 87mm

try doing leakdown test, that might provide some clues but won't show worn guides. if its a bit of an unknown quantity it's worth checking as much as you can so you know what you've got. if the mech says valves then I'd go with that, if it's still at the same place those guys seem pretty good . gtr valve springs are not as good as a set from Performance Springs for $250. nismo or cometic metal head gasket will be fine as long as it's the right thickness. head off will give you a good opportunity to check CR also, no point running 7.5:1

as R33 racer said oil returns are gravity feed and can cause problems if not plumbed correctly. all of the hoses should facilitate flow by 'pointing downwards' if that makes sense ie don't have a hose that tries to make the oil run up hill.

valve guides only blow smoke first thing in the morning as the oil drips down overnight then burns off when u first start the car in the morning. If it was valve stem seals u shouldn't see smoke after that initial start.

This was one of the reasons Cubes and myself spent extra to get the head recon'd before the bottom end was built. No point having a fresh bottom end then slap on a 100k+ old head on it

Try a leakdown test, then look at the turbo.

Edited by Bl4cK32

If the inlet valve guides/seals are worn, it will blow smoke when accalerating after decel, such as after going down a long hill, as the inlet manifold vacuum sucks the oil past. Exhaust guides/seals will blow smoke on startup, but not leave any residue on the plugs. Is there oil in the intercooler piping, any residue around the exhaust housing. Have you done a comp test, or is there much blowby out the breather under load?

yeah there's plenty of oil in the intercooler piping, i've also changed the turbo over with another stockie that was the first thing i did and yeah didn't fix it.

The car is running quite well needed a car to drive the other day but on a 30min return trip it went through heaps of oil which was surprising cos it's wasn't blowing to much smoke, put a bottle of stop smoke in it just for the hell of it and it's has actually lessened the smoke but it's still quite bad so it got parked straight back in my drive way

the oil line from the head is pretty much a straight T into the turbo return line the oil never travels up only horizontial but it does have to do a 90 degree turn

had my mechanic drill and tap the head, then put a grub screw inplace of the original vct feed, then drilled and tapped into the front of the gallery behind the inlet cam gear and put a fitting in there for me, all i need now is some braided line to go from the oil hole behind the oil filter to supply it with oil, as the rb25 oil cooler assembly houses the std oil pressure sender, where as the rb30 used the hole behind it.

dont have pics here though

did you have to weld shut the oil feed port on the block, and did you modified the coolant port on the block to match the r33 rb25 head?

guys i need some help with find a bloody timming belt, ive try'd just about every place in australia.

Ive put my second tensioner in stock position, motor is together so i dont want to drill and tap holes.

All i need is a timming belt: 1200 long, 150 Teeth with a 8 mm pitch 25 mm wide to fit on the rb cam / crank gear.

Sound symple? well its not!

The gates powergrip 1200 8mgt belt is an industrial belt and does not fit on the cam and crank gears. All automotive belts have a tooth number but no length and no pitch information... so how the F$@* do you find a belt?

P.S Both the bosch and Dayco belts on the SAU PDF are 152 tooth for use with relocated tensioner

Edited by kaige

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...