Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I have got a timing belt that was sold to me by a local performance shop. They did an R32 with a 30DET in it using an RB25 head and they told me they rang gates and organised a belt with them that works with the idler/tensioner the same as TWINVL was setup but its a shorter belt so it doesnt run so close. The belt I was given is 25mm wide, its a Gates Racing powergrip belt. It has T1592R on it and the numbers 102 through to 106 and 5-25.

Not sure if this information will help anyone in anyway, ive seen belts setup so many different ways its not funny, so what ever works go for it!

Kaige posted:

TWIN VL... 'now using the same belt p/n T306 due to the gates not fitting properly so should be all fine!'

RB Calais posted:

...same as TWINVL was setup but its a shorter belt so it doesnt run so close...it's a Gates

So I'm assuming that TWINVL has used the 'close' set up. BUT he appears to have moved to using the T306 belt (his website still indicates that he used the Gates) presumably due to the perceived problem with the Gates tooth profile.

Edited by Scooby

Scooby.. He's a dude on ct.com.

Just did a comp test. Motors done 50,000km's. 158psi exactly through out. I did 2 tests on each cylinder. The tests only varied 1psi. I took the highest reading.

So same as last time. Exactly the same across the board.

The motors running 0.0040" bore to piston clearance with a set of rb25 wiseco's.

the rb30e sump is slightly deeper than the rb20e sump. my engine went into a cefiro and we needed the space as the 30 sump would have hit the crossmember

my brother overfilled the engine and i can report than an rb30 can hold more than 10 litres :-)

hah yeap i was incredibly suprised when my 10 litre bucket didnt have enough space

what pistons does one reccomend if the acl ones arent suited?

hah yeap i was incredibly suprised when my 10 litre bucket didnt have enough space

what pistons does one reccomend if the acl ones arent suited?

S3_girl (Darren) is running Precision Hyperutetic pistons in his 370rwkw odd rb30 with std rods.

talking about pistons... I am quite sure that the dirty old VG30 has a slightly larger bore than the RB30. if i remember rightly, it is 0.5 mm. i'll check that..

Anyway, i havn't actually seen it for myself, but i've been led to beleive that they are a flat top style piston. I you bored the RB30 to suit it get you closer to the 9:1 comp ur after. most know that the VG also had a turbo version, so use that piston! wouldn't be the most ideal setup for making bulk power, but a good sound setup for a mild streeter..

Its worth the consideration and checking pins fit and deck height and all the usual stuff...

That help??

Scooby.. He's a dude on ct.com.

Just did a comp test. Motors done 50,000km's. 158psi exactly through out. I did 2 tests on each cylinder. The tests only varied 1psi. I took the highest reading.

So same as last time. Exactly the same across the board.

The motors running 0.0040" bore to piston clearance with a set of rb25 wiseco's.

Hell thats good Cubes, well done. I still reckon your motor is one to aspire to. I went with RB25 Super Techs 8.98 according to software comp; .0025 coated and thats what they recommend.

Still want to get to the bottom of the timing belt issue. My preference is to run the 'close' set up using the same belt Kaige is using. The issue with the Gates belt profile has got me wary.

Edited by Scooby
S3_girl (Darren) is running Precision Hyperutetic pistons in his 370rwkw odd rb30 with std rods.

is that the brand? im in nz so havent heard of them before

i was going to go with acl ones with the chromoly ring but you guys are doing very well at putting me off

is that the brand? im in nz so havent heard of them before

i was going to go with acl ones with the chromoly ring but you guys are doing very well at putting me off

I assume so.. Precision is what I remember he said.

I can't find much on them via google.

Hey cubes....you ran 4thou piston to bore clearance in your motor, with wisecos and you said you get some piston slap when its cold. I ran acls in my personal road r33 when i rebuilt the rb25 not long ago, i ran 3 thou piston to bore clearance, which was 2 thou tighter then what acl specs stated. Even so i get absolutely no audible piston slap, not even straight up in the morning on cold start.

Out of curiosity what was your ring end gap clearance?

I do get some slap but its not audible unless you pop your bonnet and really listen. Even then it only sounds like a little top end noise. So definitely not what I'd consider 'piston slap' but its definitely there for the tuned ear. :huh:

I have No idea what the ring end gap clearance is.

The bloke who built my motor said never to let it sit and idle on cold starts. Simply get in and drive it lightly to bring the engine temps up quickly. He also did something funky with the bore hone to reduce leak down and speed up run-in.

hmm i wonder if he washed the bore down with shellite and sprayed inox or wd40 to quicken up ring bed in. I know thats a common practice these days for some workshops to help speed up the run in. Normally you just wash down the bore with hot soapy water after honing and then coat with oil until its fully assembled and started up.

Would be interesting to know how many people/workshops actually use that method after boring and honing and if there has been any noticeable effects from it, good or bad.

If precision hypereutectic are no stronger than factory pistons then there's no need to run forged pistons until you're over 400rwkw. :huh:

There's a few words over at calaisturbo on the precision pistons.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=28737 - Post 5

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=66415 - Post 3

I noticed there's a few reports of failed hyp acl pistons over at ct.com.

Hey cubes....you ran 4thou piston to bore clearance in your motor, with wisecos and you said you get some piston slap when its cold. I ran acls in my personal road r33 when i rebuilt the rb25 not long ago, i ran 3 thou piston to bore clearance, which was 2 thou tighter then what acl specs stated. Even so i get absolutely no audible piston slap, not even straight up in the morning on cold start.

Out of curiosity what was your ring end gap clearance?

4 thou seems standard for forgies, unless they're coated like Mahle or Super Tech which run around 2.5 thou recommended. Not withstanding that you ran the ACLs tighter, which could have helped address a tendency towards slap when cold, I know the ACLs have a different skirt design that combats slap.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...