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R33 Rb30 Conversion


JNR24

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nothing in the pdf talks about how to install the jun collar- just says its recommended.

nor does it answer my questions about oil restriction.

well read the damn thread, i know for a fact someone has posted up precise details of whats needed to install it, and gave an alternative, of one that proengines do, for about ~$130.

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Is anyone using an ATI harmonic balancer ?

I just want to know what part number balancer they are using...

when i bougt mine 2 months ago

ATI917752 $1035 + GST/nil stock. (RB26, direct bolt on,-R32 for cars making 600-1000HP)

ATI917753 $1035 + GST/in stock. (RB26, direct bolt on,-R33-R34 for cars making 600-1000HP

form rocket industry's

Make sure the one your getting has serpentine belt drive unless it's a race car

But u can get them at perfomancewholesale.com.au for around 1000

cheers

Edited by kastin
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i know this is an old post and ill get told to read the post for this question, but what engine harness and computer did people use for this conversioni was going to get a custom one made up but i dont know who would do that either. some help would be greatly welcome!!!

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Use the loom and computer for whatever head your using. Thats the easiest way as it will plug n play with all the sensors and ancillaries on the head/block. Injectors, coil packs and so on.

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i know this is an old post and ill get told to read the post for this question, but what engine harness and computer did people use for this conversioni was going to get a custom one made up but i dont know who would do that either. some help would be greatly welcome!!!

Page 5 of 8 in the PDF (which is in the 1st post of this thread) states the following:

ECU

Use the corresponding ECU to the head you are using. It simplifies wiring, injector and sensor compatibility.

The R32 ECU’s can be re-mapped; AP Engineering PowerFC’s are also available.

Ensure the ECU you select supports the following features:

• Close loop – fuel economy

• Knock Sensor – Safety

• Sequential Injection – Fuel Economy & higher average power

• 6 ignition drivers – Doesn’t overwork your coils

The R33 & R32 ECU’s will run the RB30DET with no problems for the run-in period.

Now if you had some common courtesy, you would have taken my advice and atleast read the PDF, yet you couldn’t even be bothered doing that. How farking stupid are you?

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I've read the PDF about 10 times so far just to get a good understanding of the general conversion. I stress "general" as the PDF does not go into details. I've read well over 3/4 of this thread too (very draining but informative) but I still have these questions:

1) How much of the "extra" bits n bobs do you transfer over to the RB30? (Alternator, P/S Pump, thing behind oil filter, hoses brackets etc)

2) Does the RB30 block have the same mounting holes for all these brackets (in roughly the same places) ?

3) The stands which go onto the engine mounts - did people re-use the RB30 ones of the ones from their original motor?

4) When blanking off the rear oil gallery (instead of putting in restrictor); where does one get the part to block this up or is it simply weld n smooth?

Thanks guys!

S

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I've read the PDF about 10 times so far just to get a good understanding of the general conversion. I stress "general" as the PDF does not go into details. I've read well over 3/4 of this thread too (very draining but informative) but I still have these questions:

1) How much of the "extra" bits n bobs do you transfer over to the RB30? (Alternator, P/S Pump, thing behind oil filter, hoses brackets etc)

2) Does the RB30 block have the same mounting holes for all these brackets (in roughly the same places) ?

3) The stands which go onto the engine mounts - did people re-use the RB30 ones of the ones from their original motor?

4) When blanking off the rear oil gallery (instead of putting in restrictor); where does one get the part to block this up or is it simply weld n smooth?

Thanks guys!

S

The best way i found to understand it all, is to grab the block and start playing with it as to what fits etc.

1) Keep all ur ancilleries, double check the brackets fit on the RB30. For the oil filter housing, this is what i did; Have an oil cooler with relocator, so just screw the sandwich plate from the relocator to the block, mounted the pressure sender & oil temp sensor a different way (have a look on the block and you'll easily see what u have to do).

2) All the same holes except for the engine mount brackets

3) Have to re-use ur old ones, RB30 ones are on different angle/length.

4) Not sure about this one, my engine builder took care of that >_<

Hope that helps :(

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Thanks a bunch shanef!

Final question; promise... what is the more popular way of running the new timing belt? Re-using the tensioner on the RB30 or tapping a new one into that flat machined surface?

I've seen a few hybrid setups now and they differ in this a lot - seems that some think it's OK to re-use the old position whilst others don't. I mean; on the RB25s and 26s i've seen; the belts come fairly close anyway - the only difference on the 30 is that the belt comes a few mm closer (but at tension I don't see this being a problem).

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Thanks a bunch shanef!

Final question; promise... what is the more popular way of running the new timing belt? Re-using the tensioner on the RB30 or tapping a new one into that flat machined surface?

I've seen a few hybrid setups now and they differ in this a lot - seems that some think it's OK to re-use the old position whilst others don't. I mean; on the RB25s and 26s i've seen; the belts come fairly close anyway - the only difference on the 30 is that the belt comes a few mm closer (but at tension I don't see this being a problem).

for peace of mind get the new one machined in, it's a pretty simple task >_<

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Cool... thanks guys!

Cubes - page 90 or so (40ppp) you said to use the harmonic balancer suited to your car; but then someone said that all the balancers are interchangeable... to keep the original motor as "intact" as possible; is the RB30 one useable or is this NOT reccomended?

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Cool... thanks guys!

Cubes - page 90 or so (40ppp) you said to use the harmonic balancer suited to your car; but then someone said that all the balancers are interchangeable... to keep the original motor as "intact" as possible; is the RB30 one useable or is this NOT reccomended?

use the one for ur head. some have different teeth on the belts so itd be easier to just use the one for ur head and ancillaries

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Cool... thanks guys!

Cubes - page 90 or so (40ppp) you said to use the harmonic balancer suited to your car; but then someone said that all the balancers are interchangeable... to keep the original motor as "intact" as possible; is the RB30 one useable or is this NOT reccomended?

If you want to retain the skylines alternator, power steer and aircon you must use the skylines balancer. >_<

All your essentially doing is dropping an rb30 bottom end under the DOHC head and bolting on all the skyline bits.

Its definitely not difficult and shouldn't be over complicated as apart from the powersteer bracket everything simply bolts up.

The guide pretty much has everything in it you need. If it doesn't mention it you don't need to worry about it. :(

It could do with a bit of editing regarding the oil restrictors. It would be good if some of you could share what you have done and what oil pump you are running. :)

I do have SK's list but its always good to see what others are doing and how its working. :)

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LOL of course I know you need to use Skyline parts - what I meant was whether the balancer has to be from a RB30, RB26 or RB25 or are they all interchangeable?

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