Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just a quik question. im going to be buying a garrett gt35/40 and im not shore wheather to go .82 or 1.06 exhaust housing i will be using the stock exhaust manifold with foolboost's adapter plate to suit so i no 300rwkw will be about all the stock manifold has but that all i want so its all good just wondering if the .82 housing will allow it to spool faster but will it cause a flow restriction more so than the stock exhaust manifold?

yeh i no it will make the power im just thinking about how usable th epower will be if i get the .82 housing will it be to snappy and just = tyre smoke or will it be smooth. i wanna be able to get most of the power to the ground lol

Hey guys,

Just wondering the weight of the RB30 block, RB25 block and RB26 block (25 and 26 would be pretty close right? I remember hearing the 26 had more ribbing etc making it a different weight to the 25).

Aslo how does the Neo 25 head compare to the RB26 head? Just wondering if the 26 head is worth the extra money compared to the neo 25 as last I heard it was a decent improvement on the old RB25 head. Course the 26 head will always look hawt compared to the 25 :P

And last but not least, how do iron blocks compare to alloy? Iron would keep more heat in right? is that a good thing or a bad thing? Not exactly a mechanic here and just looking for some info.

Thanks guys.

hey guys,

i tried checking to see if this was mentioned. I'm putting the RB26 head on my RB30. What tensioners do I use when using the two lower tensioner locations instead of drill tapping a hole near the top flat portion.

I have a gates power grip GT2 150 tooth belt, and it's pretty damn sturdy, so i'll just make a thin piece of metal that separates the two teethed sides in the case of any belt flap or what have you.

so i've noticed that nismoparts.com has two different tensioners. both RB20/25, and 26. someone told me that if i use the RB26 head, i should use the 26 tensioners, but im not sure if the stud or the construction of the tensioner is the same or if the RB30 block itself is suited to RB25 tensioners rather than 26 ones.

Let me know, i want to order everything soon :-D

NA high compression RB30DE on it's way...

Thanks dudes!

Raff

i was under the impression that all the tensioners were the same.

Besides you only need to use one above the water pump and leave an idler down the bottom. Makes it way easier if you need to change belts or adjust something which requires the belt to be removed.

That would be move it out a few mm. In makes it tighter and the 152 belt is the perfect tension with an idler low and the tensioner high.

correct, but as stated, the GT2 belt is far stronger than a standard timing belt, im sure.

just looking at its construction is enough to tell that. i'd be happier knowing that I can run the GT2.

It's not so much the strength of the belt but the bolts in the idler and tensioner that cause more catastrophic failures. I know of a few belts that have torn apart due to foreign object damage, or old age, but there are many instances of the bolts or bearings failing, so the bolts need to be high tensile items. If there is too much load on the belt the bolts can also be the weak point.

I've just started stripping my RB30e down to fit all my goodies. Would it be worth replacing welsh plugs on a 180 thousand K engine?

yes i would say removing the old steel plugs and replacing them with brass ones is a good idea, especially since you can buy a whole set for under $40

If the engine is well built and maintained and treated well what is the average life of a RB25/30?? Ive been advised 60,000km if lucky. Just seeing whether the big bucks is worth the bang. How much of a lag monster is it also?? Sorry im sure question has been answered but no time to scroll through 260 pages.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...